TorqFix

Gearbox removal & installation: Suzuki Splash 2010 (K10B, K12B)

Step-by-step gearbox removal & installation for the Suzuki Splash 2010 (K10B/K12B): 69 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.

Gearbox removal on the Suzuki Splash with the 1.0 K10B or 1.2 K12B engine, for cars up to 2010. The battery, battery tray, air filter housing and engine control unit with its bracket come out first to make room on top, then the gearbox wiring, earth cable, clutch cable and gear selector cables are disconnected and the starter and upper bell housing bolts removed. A lifting eye on the cylinder head lets a hoist carry the engine while the left engine support is taken off. Underneath, the fluid is drained, the drive shafts are freed from the wheel bearing housings and the gearbox, and the impact absorber, rear support and starter come away. Engine support and a transmission jack are what make the final separation safe.

69 steps 2 engine codes

🧭 Before you start

Clear the top of the engine bay, disconnect the gearbox wiring and cables and remove the upper engine-to-gearbox bolts. Support the engine with a hoist on the lifting eye and remove the left engine support. With the car raised, drain the gearbox fluid, remove the splash guards and both drive shafts, the impact absorber, starter and rear engine support. Put the gearbox on a transmission jack, remove the remaining nuts and bolts, separate it from the engine and lower it out. On refitting, check and adjust the selector cable.

Fits: platform codes 1.0, |, 1.2

  • Timing position: the crankshaft or camshaft is set and locked during this job
  • Special tools named: locking tool

Don't miss

  • Fit the lifting eye and take the engine weight on a hoist before removing the left engine support.
  • Use the special tool to free the drive shafts from the wheel bearing housings.
  • Support the gearbox on a transmission jack before the last engine/gearbox bolts come out.
  • Check and adjust the selector cable and gear-shift lever after refitting.
  • Drain the gearbox fluid before pulling the drive shafts out.

Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.

🔧 Engine codes this applies to

K10BK12B

📋 Procedure

  1. Gear-shift lever adjustment
  2. Engine/gearbox attaching nut:
  3. Remove the air filter housing
  4. Disconnect the battery
  5. Disconnect the engine control unit
K10B? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. Remove the battery tray
  2. Remove the engine control unit with bracket
  3. Disconnect the electrical wiring from the gearbox
  4. Remove the gearbox electrical connections
  5. Disconnect the clutch cable
  6. Disconnect the gear selector cables from the gearbox
  7. Remove the gearbox earth cable
  8. Remove the gear-shift control bracket
  9. Remove the starter motor upper bolt
  10. Remove the engine/gearbox upper attaching bolts
  11. Fit a lifting eye to the cylinder head
  12. Lifting eye:
  13. Use a hoist to support the engine
  14. Left engine support:
  15. Remove the left engine support
  16. Raise the vehicle
  17. Drain the gearbox fluid
  18. Remove the splash guards
  19. Remove the drive shafts
  20. Locking tool:
  21. Engine support tool:
  22. Special tool:
  23. Flywheel locking tool:
  24. Special tool:
  25. Fit the special tools
  26. Disconnect the drive shafts from the wheel bearing housings
  27. Use a special tool:
  28. Disconnect the drive shafts from the gearbox
  29. Remove the impact absorber
  30. Remove the left engine support
  31. Remove the engine support bracket
  32. Remove the starter motor
  33. Remove the rear engine support
  34. Remove the engine/gearbox attaching nut(s)
  35. Remove the remaining engine/gearbox attaching bolts
  36. Separate the gearbox from the engine
  37. Transmission jack:
  38. Remove the gearbox
  39. Lower the vehicle
  40. Check/adjust the selector lever cable

Other SUZUKI procedures

Who makes these pages, and how

TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com

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Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.