Removing engine, Passat, Eos and CC: VW 2.0 TDI (CFFA, CFFB, CFFD, CFGB, …)
Step-by-step removing engine, Passat, Eos and CC for the VW 2.0 TDI: 74 steps, 1 torque figure. What to remove, what to tighten and to how many Nm, what.
Lowering the engine and gearbox out from underneath on the Passat B7 (362/365, 2010–2014), Passat CC (357, 2008–2012) and Eos (1F8) with the common rail diesel codes CFFA through CLLA. It is a full unit drop: battery and air filter out, coolant drained, refrigerant extracted and the A/C lines unscrewed from the compressor, engine control unit and harness freed, gear-change mechanism or mechatronic connector disconnected, fuel lines opened, then the charge air lines, pendulum support, drive shafts and, on four-wheel drive, the propshaft at the bevel box. Engine bracket T10012 goes onto the block at about 20 Nm and the assembly sits on the jack before the mounting bolts come out. The outcome rests on two things: every hose and line between engine, gearbox, subframe and body being genuinely free, and protecting the propshaft seal and exhaust flexible joint.
🧭 Before you start
Preparation takes most of the time: battery, intake, coolant, refrigerant, wiring harness, gear-change, fuel and charge air connections are all separated, with open unions plugged. Underneath, the radiator, pendulum support, heat shield, drive shafts and propshaft come off and the particulate filter is tied back. The engine bracket is bolted on, the assembly is taken on the engine and gearbox jack, mountings released, and the unit is lowered while swinging the gearbox end forwards.
Fits: VW Passat CC (357, 2008–2012), VW Passat B7 saloon (362, 2010–2014), VW Passat B7 Variant (365, 2010–2014); platform code 1F8
- Opens: coolant, refrigerant (A/C)
Don't miss
- Have the refrigerant extracted before unscrewing the A/C lines from the compressor; do not kink or stretch them.
- Let fuel cool before opening the lines; it can reach 100 °C after shutdown.
- Never bend the flexible joint in the front exhaust pipe more than 10°.
- Mark the flexible coupling against the bevel box flange; a damaged propshaft seal means renewing the propshaft.
- Bolt engine bracket T10012 to the block at approx. 20 Nm before raising the assembly.
- Lower slowly and swing the gearbox end forwards first, checking clearance to the A/C compressor.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
🔩 Torque settings
Values can differ between engine variants — check the code stamped on your block.
| Torque | Fastener / step |
|---|---|
| 20 Nm (15 lb-ft) | Bolt engine bracket with securing bolt (1) and nut (2) to cylinder block |
ℹ️ Always cross-check the exact figure against your vehicle's factory manual before final tightening — a wrong torque can damage the engine. These values are extracted from workshop data and may not cover every variant or revision.
📋 Procedure
- Remove engine cover panel .
- With ignition switched off, disconnect battery earth strap Electrical system27Battery; Disconnecting and connecting battery.
- Disconnect electrical connector on air mass meter G70.
- Remove air filter housing with air mass meter and connecting pipe .
- Unscrew bolts (arrows) and remove air duct from lock carrier.
- Remove battery Electrical system27Battery; Removing and installing battery.
- Drain coolant .
- Extract refrigerant from air conditioning system Heating, air conditioning system00Repair instructions; Draining the refrigerant circuit.
- ⚠ Danger of damage to air conditioner compressor, refrigerant lines and hoses.Do NOT stretch, kink or bend refrigerant lines and hoses. — Unscrew refrigerant lines (arrows) from air conditioner compressor.
- Remove engine control unit J623 from its bracket .
- Pull engine wiring harness connector (arrow) off engine control unit.
- Release feed-through for engine wiring harness (arrow) and pull off upwards.
- Unscrew bolts (arrows) and remove battery mounting bracket (1).
- Separate connectors.
- Unscrew the bolts (arrows) and place charge pressure control solenoid valve N75 with vacuum lines on the engine.
- Guide lines out of brackets on plenum chamber bulkhead and on turbocharger.
- Disconnect plug-in connectors for heat exchanger (arrows) on plenum chamber bulkhead.
- Remove coolant expansion tank and place on engine.
- Loosen (captive) bolt (arrow). Twist intake hose (A) clockwise out of its bracket and remove it.
- Pull off vacuum hoses (1) and (2) for charge air control.
- Slide the two clips in the direction of the (arrows) and remove cover from electronics box in engine compartment.
- Remove lines on the central electrical system (arrows) and place on the engine.
- Open cable guide retainer (arrows).
- Disconnect engine wiring harness connector (arrow) below left headlight.
- Free connector (1) and disconnect.
- Open retainer (2) for wiring guide located below.
- Remove wiring harness for engine control unit from wiring duct and place on engine.
- Pull vacuum hose (arrow) off brake servo.
- Remove gear-change mechanism from gearbox 34Gear-change mechanism; Assembly overview - Gear-change mechanism.
- To release, turn catch of mechatronic connector (arrow) and pull connector off.
- Remove gear-change mechanism from gearbox 34Gear-change mechanism; Assembly overview - Gear-change mechanism.
- Remove pipe-hose line or plastic line from clutch slave cylinder 30Clutch control mechanism; Removing and installing lines for clutch control mechanism.
- Disconnect all connectors between starter, gearbox and body.
- ⚠ Danger of scalding from very hot fuel.In extreme cases, the temperature of the fuel and the fuel lines can reach 100 °C after the engine is switched off. Allow the fuel to cool down before disconnecting the lines - danger of scalding.Wear protective gloves.Wear eye protection. — Open plug-in connectors (A) and (B) of fuel lines and pull fuel lines off.
- Unclip bracket for coolant hose (1).
- Remove fuel filter securing bolts and place fuel filter on engine.
- Unplug connector at pressure differential sender G505(2), unscrew securing bolt (1).
- Unclip lines for pressure differential sender G505 out of upper toothed belt guard together with bracket (1).
- Lay pressure differential sender G505 on particulate filter together with bracket.
- Remove securing clamp (1) between particulate filter and turbocharger.
- Remove bolt (1).
- Removing radiator .
- Remove noise insulation General body repairs, exterior66Noise insulation; Assembly overview - noise insulation.
- Remove lower wheel housing liners on left and right General body repairs, exterior66Wheel housing liner; Removing and installing wheel housing liner.
- Remove left charge air line by loosening hose clips (1) and (2).
- Remove right charge air line by loosening hose clips (1) and (2).
- Seal open lines and unions with clean plugs from engine sealing plug setVAS 6122.
- Disconnect connector (1).
- Unscrew bolts (1…3) and remove pendulum support.
- Clamp off coolant hoses (1) and (2) with hose clips up to Ø 25 mm3094 and pull coolant hoses from additional heater.
- Remove nuts (1 and 2).
- Tie up particulate filter to rear.
- ⚠ Avoid damage to the flexible joint.Do not bend flexible joint in front exhaust pipe more than 10°. — Unscrew bolts (1) and remove heat shield for right drive shaft.
- Unbolt left and right drive shafts from flange shafts on gearbox.
- Mark position of flexible coupling and bevel box flange relative to each other for reinstallation.
- Unbolt propshaft from bevel box (arrows). To do this, counterhold on triangular flange using a lever.
- Push engine/gearbox assembly slightly forwards (in direction of front end) and pull propshaft off bevel box. [Note: If seal is damaged, propshaft must be renewed.]
- ⚠ Risk of damage to seal (arrow) in propshaft flange.Push propshaft horizontally as far back as possible and towards left vehicle side. — Tie up propshaft on left vehicle side.
- Unscrew nuts (qty. 3) of swivel joint on right suspension link Running gear, axles, steering40Lower suspension link, swivel joint; Assembly overview - lower suspension link, swivel joint.
- Separate swivel joint from right transverse link Running gear, axles, steering40Lower suspension link, swivel joint; Assembly overview – lower suspension link, swivel joint.
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.