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Removing and installing wheel bearing, suspension strut and drive shaft (Base running gear) — VW

Removing and installing wheel bearing, suspension strut and drive shaft (Base running gear) on VW: factory workshop procedure.

Workshop procedure for VW — the factory write-up, straight from real workshop data.

factory workshop text

📋 Procedure

ℹ️ Torque figures below come verbatim from workshop data — always cross-check against your vehicle's factory manual before final tightening.

Notes:

If a vehicle has to be moved after removing the drive shaft, first install outer joint and tighten to 50 Nm otherwise the wheel bearing will be damaged.
It is not permitted to carry out welding and straightening operations on load bearing suspension components or those components which locate the wheels.
Always renew self-locking nuts.
Always renew corroded nuts/bolts.
Wheel bolt tightening torque: 110 Nm.

Self-locking nut, 60 Nm
This nut is loosened when the suspension strut is unbolted at body/suspension turret.
After each loosening of the hexagon nut it is imperative that the slotted nut on the suspension strut mounting isretightened to 40 Nm!

Loosening and tightening
=> Fig.
1

Suspension strut
Dismantling and assembling => Page
40-26

Self-locking nut, 95 Nm
Bolt
Adjusting camber
=> Page
44-4
Mark position before loosening

45 Nm

Drive shaft
To remove and install separate ball joint/wishbone connection => Fig.
2
Repairing => Page
40-68

Self-locking nut, 265 Nm
Only loosen and tighten with the vehicle standing on its wheels (danger of accident)
Any paint residue and/or corrosion on the thread of the outer joint must be removed before the nut is fitted

Washer
Self-locking nut, 35 Nm
Track rod
Removing and installing
=> Page
48-47

Hexagon bolt, 25 Nm
Brake caliper
Do not loosen brake hose when working on front suspension
Hang up with wire or similar

Brake pads
Removing and installing
=>Page
46-6

50 Nm
Brake disc
Cross-head screw
Hub
Pressing out =>Fig.
3
Pressing in =>Fig.
7
Pulling off bearing inner race
=>Fig.
4

Hub
For vehicles with ABS
Pressing out =>Fig.
3
Pressing in =>Fig.
7

Speed sensor rotor
Only on vehicles with ABS

Hexagon bolt, 10 Nm
Splash plate
Circlip
Ensure correctly seated

Wheel bearing
Pressing out =>Fig.
5
Renew, as it is destroyed during pressing out
Pressing in =>Fig.
6

Wheel bearing housing

Fig.1
Removing and installing suspension strut to body

Fig.2
Separating ball joint/wishbone connection

Remove bolts (arrow A).
Loosen bolt (arrow B).

Note:

First mark installation position

Fig.3
Pressing hub out of wheel bearing housing

Fig.4
Pulling bearing race out of hub

Only use puller with leg clamp e.g. Kukko 204-2 (commercial type).

Fig.5
Pressing wheel bearing out of wheel bearing housing

Coat hole completely with Molykote grease.

Fig.6
Pressing wheel bearing into wheel bearing housing

Fig.7
Pressing hub into wheel bearing

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🎬 Video walkthrough

Independent video tutorial by AUTODOC (YouTube) — a helpful visual companion to the steps above.

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Who makes these pages, and how

TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com

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Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.