II - Removing and installing wheel bearing, suspension strut and drive shaft — VW
II - Removing and installing wheel bearing, suspension strut and drive shaft on VW: factory workshop procedure. Full factory text, tools and checks.
Workshop procedure for VW — the factory write-up, straight from real workshop data.
📋 Procedure
ℹ️ Torque figures below come verbatim from workshop data — always cross-check against your vehicle's factory manual before final tightening.
Notes:
If a vehicle has to be moved after removing the drive shaft, first install outer joint and tighten to 50 Nm otherwise the wheel bearing will be damaged.
It is not permitted to carry out welding and straightening operations on load bearing suspension components or those components which locate the wheels.
Always renew self-locking nuts.
Always renew corroded nuts/bolts.
Wheel bolt tightening torque: 110 Nm.
Body stiffening strut
Suspension strut
Removing and installing => Fig.
1
and Fig.
2
Servicing => Page
40-26
Cover cap
Self-locking hexagon nut, 20 Nm
Washer
Track rod
Removing and installing
=> Page
48-26
Castellated nut
Split pin
Renew
Wheel bearing housing
Splash plate
Can only be removed after pressing wheel hub off
Hub
Pressing out =>Fig.
4
Pressing in =>Fig.
8
Pulling off bearing inner race
=>Fig.
5
Brake disc
Brake disc thickness: 13 mm
Wear limit: 11 mm
When worn always renew both sides.
Never remove brake discs from hub by force. If necessary use penetrating fluid, otherwise brake discs can be damaged.
Washer
Self-locking nut, 300 Nm
Only loosen and tighten with the vehicle standing on its wheels (danger of accident)
Any paint residue and/or corrosion on the thread of the outer joint must be removed before the nut is fitted
Counter sunk screw
8 Nm
Brake pads
Removing and installing
=>Page
46-5
Brake caliper
Do not loosen brake hose when working on front suspension
Hang up with wire or similar
Hexagon bolt
60 Nm
For securing brake carrier
Hexagon bolt
5 Nm
Circlip
Ensure correctly seated
Wheel bearing
Checking clearance => Page
40-29
Pressing out =>Fig.
6
Renew, as it is destroyed during pressing out
Pressing in =>Fig.
7
Self-locking hexagon nut, 65 Nm
Hexagon bolt
Clamping bolt for ball joint => Fig.
3
Hexagon bolt
Self-locking hexagon nut, 65 Nm
Drive shaft
Removing and installing
=>Page
40-30
Repairing => Page
40-32
Fig.1
Removing and installing suspension strut to body
Remove suspension strut nuts -1- on body.
Note:
The central nut -2- must not be removed.
Fig.2
Separating wheel bearing housing/suspension strut connection
Fig.3
Separating ball joint/wheel bearing housing connection
Fig.4
Pressing hub out of wheel bearing housing
Fig.5
Pulling bearing race out of hub
Only use puller with leg clamp e.g. Kukko 204-2 (commercial type).
Fig.6
Pressing wheel bearing out of wheel bearing housing
Fig.7
Pressing wheel bearing into wheel bearing housing
Fig.8
Pressing hub into wheel bearing
TorqFix answers live for your specific car — tell it the engine code and it serves the matching sequence, torque figures and wiring for that exact variant.
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.