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Removing and installing fuel pressure sender: VW 2.0 TDI (CBAA, CBAB, CBAC, CBBA, …)

Step-by-step removing and installing fuel pressure sender for the VW 2.0 TDI: 18 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.

Workshop procedure for VW — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.

18 steps 22 engine codes engine codes merged from 5 documented variants

🧭 Before you start

  • Renewed: affected component

Don't miss

  • Before removal, clean thread area around the fuel pressure sender using e.g. a commercially available cold cleaning solvent. No dirt must enter the bore.
  • Clean carefully; cleaning solvent must not enter the electrical connector.
  • Extract the dirt from hole of high pressure accumulator (rail) (threads and sealing surface). Do not use tools or other instruments for this purpose.
  • The high-pressure connections must "“not”" be opened for bleeding; fuel system bleeds itself automatically.
  • If there is any air left in the fuel system, the engine may switch to the backup mode ('emergency running' mode) during the road test. Switch off engine and clear event memory. Then continue road test.

📐 48 workshop diagrams for CBAA

Real factory drawings for this job — timing marks, bolt locations and routing. Locked in the free view.

Removing and installing fuel pressure sender — CBAA · diagram 1
Removing and installing fuel pressure sender — CBAA · diagram 2
Removing and installing fuel pressure sender — CBAA · diagram 3
Removing and installing fuel pressure sender — CBAA · diagram 4
Removing and installing fuel pressure sender — CBAA · diagram 5
Removing and installing fuel pressure sender — CBAA · diagram 6
Removing and installing fuel pressure sender — CBAA · diagram 7
Removing and installing fuel pressure sender — CBAA · diagram 8
+ 40 more diagrams

📋 Procedure

  1. ⚠ Observe rules for cleanliness and the instructions for working on the fuel system .Always follow these rules for cleanliness and instructions before starting work and while working on the fuel system. — Remove engine cover panel (see the separate procedure).
  2. Before removal, clean thread area around the fuel pressure sender using e.g. a commercially available cold cleaning solvent. No dirt must enter the bore.
  3. Open cable strip (arrow) Pull plug from the glow plugs.
  4. Lay cable harness to one side. [Note: Clean carefully; cleaning solvent must not enter the electrical connector.]
  5. Dry fuel pressure sender G247.
CBAA? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. Release and pull off electrical connector (B) from the fuel pressure sender G247.
  2. Unscrew fuel pressure sender G247.
  3. Extract the dirt from hole of high pressure accumulator (rail) (threads and sealing surface). Do not use tools or other instruments for this purpose.
  4. Seal open hole of high-pressure accumulator (rail) using a bung from engine bung set VAS 6122. [Note: Fuel pressure sender G247 has a deformable sealing lip, not a seal, for sealing purposes. Make sure that the sealing surfaces (deformable sealing lip) and threads on fuel pressure sender G247 are not damaged. Reusing fuel pressure sender G247 if possible if it has been tested OK.Check sealing surface at hole of high-pressure accumulator (rail).Start of thread and deformable sealing lip of fuel pressure regulating valve N276 must be moistened with diesel.]
  5. Tighten fuel pressure sender G247 by hand.
  6. Tighten fuel pressure sender G247.
  7. After installing fuel pressure sender G247, allow engine to run at moderate speed for a few minutes in order to bleed the fuel system. [Note: The high-pressure connections must "“not”" be opened for bleeding; fuel system bleeds itself automatically.]
  8. Read out event memory and, if necessary, delete it Vehicle diagnostic tester.
  9. Switch off ignition.
  10. Carefully check entire fuel system for leaks.
  11. Renew the affected component if leakage still occurs after tightening to the correct torque.
  12. Then road-test the vehicle. Accelerate with full throttle at least once, then check the high-pressure section again for leaks. [Note: If there is any air left in the fuel system, the engine may switch to the backup mode ('emergency running' mode) during the road test. Switch off engine and clear event memory. Then continue road test.]
  13. After road test, read out event memory again.
Workshop diagrams

Ask TorqFix about your VW CBAA — it answers with the exact sequence for that engine and the workshop drawing for each step. First question is free after a 20-second sign-up, no card.

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Who makes these pages, and how

TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com

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Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.