Timing belt replacement: Peugeot 307 (TU5JP4)
Step-by-step timing belt replacement for the Peugeot 307 (TU5JP4): 68 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
This page holds the timing belt sequence for the Peugeot 307 with the 1.6 16V TU5JP4 engine, codes N6A and NFU, including the BioFlex and CC versions. It is a locking-pin job: the crankshaft is locked through the flywheel and the camshafts with their own pins, the belt is never refitted once off, and tension is set by turning the tensioner to its maximum, then back clockwise until the marks line up, with a check that they are still inside the specified area afterwards. In practice the front right wheel, splash guard, ancillary belt, crankshaft pulley and both timing covers come off, and the engine hangs on a hoist so the engine support on that side can be removed. The steps as listed are the factory's short line items; read them as the checklist of what gets locked, loosened, tensioned and re-checked.
🧭 Before you start
Lock the flywheel, remove the front right wheel and splash guard, the ancillary drive belt, the engine support with the engine on a hoist, and the lower and upper timing covers. Set the crankshaft to TDC for cylinder 1, fit the flywheel and camshaft locking pins, loosen the tensioner pulley while holding it with an Allen key and take the belt off. Fit the new belt, pre-tension it, turn the tensioner anti-clockwise to maximum and then clockwise to align the marks, tighten the nut, remove the locking pins and check the tensioner position, repeating if the marks are outside the area. Refit the locking tools to confirm the timing, remove them, then refit covers, pulley, belt, support, splash guard, wheel and battery.
Fits: platform codes 1.6, 16V, |, BIOFLEX, CC
- Timing position: the crankshaft or camshaft is set and locked during this job
- Special tools named: locking tool, locking pin
Don't miss
- A removed timing belt is always replaced; never refit the old one.
- Crankshaft at TDC for cylinder 1, flywheel pin and camshaft pins in before the belt comes off.
- Hold the tensioner pulley with an Allen key while loosening and tightening its nut.
- Tensioner marks must sit inside the specified area; if not, repeat the tensioning.
- Locking tools must drop in freely on the timing check; if they do not, start again.
- Remove every locking pin before turning the engine or reconnecting the battery.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
🔧 Engine codes this applies to
📐 21 workshop diagrams for TU5JP4(N6A)
Real factory drawings for this job — timing marks, bolt locations and routing. Locked in the free view.
📋 Procedure
Preparation and removal
- Always fit a new timing belt after removal
- Flywheel locking tool:
- Remove the front right wheel
- Remove the ancillary drive belt
- Remove the engine support
- Remove the timing belt lower cover
- Remove the timing belt upper cover
- Remove the clamp
- Turn the crankshaft to TDC for cylinder 1
- Remove the tensioner locking pin
- Remove the flywheel locking pin
- Remove the timing belt
- Lock the crankshaft by fitting a locking pin into the flywheel
Installation and checks
- Pre-tension the timing belt
- Turn the tensioner anti-clockwise to the maximum timing belt tension
- Fit the camshaft locking pins
- Loosen the tensioner pulley, keeping it steady with an Allen key
- Turn the tensioner clockwise to align both marks
- Tighten the tensioner pulley nut
- Check the position of the tensioner
- Note: Repeat the procedure if the marks are outside the specified area
- Refit the locking tools to check the timing
- Note: Repeat the procedure if the special tools do not fit properly
- Remove all the locking pins
- Refit the timing covers
- Fit the crankshaft pulley
- Fit the ancillary drive belt
- Refit the engine support
- Remove the hoist
- Refit the front splash guard
- Refit the front right wheel
- Reconnect the battery
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Ask about your Peugeot TU5JP4(N6A) — free → or sign up free to see the drawingsOther PEUGEOT procedures
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
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The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.