6 (GJ) D66M-R Gearbox — MAZDA
6 (GJ) D66M-R Gearbox on Mazda: 107 steps, engines SH. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
This is gearbox removal for the D66M-R manual box in the Mazda 6 (GJ) with the SH diesel, the 2.2 SKYACTIV-D in 150 and 175 versions. It is an engine-supported job with the subframe dropped. From the top, the air filter, intake ducting, turbo outlet pipe, throttle body, EGR pipe, battery and tray come out, along with the shift cables, shift control bracket, solenoid valve, earth cable, sensors and starter. Below, both wheels come off and the brake hoses, wheel speed sensors, tie rods, stabiliser links and lower arm ball joints are released so the drive shafts can be withdrawn. The subframe is then lowered on a trolley jack. Success depends on fitting the engine support tool before the engine mount is removed, and on renewing the gaskets and one-time bolts listed rather than reusing them.
🧭 Before you start
Disconnect the battery, remove the engine covers and clear the intake side: air filter, ducting, turbo outlet pipe, throttle body, inlet manifold cover and EGR pipe. Disconnect the shift cables, sensors, solenoid valve, earth, clutch slave cylinder and starter, then remove the wheels, release the suspension joints and pull the drive shafts. Support the subframe, disconnect the steering column, pendulum support and exhaust support and drop the subframe. Fit the engine support tool, remove the bell housing bolts and engine support, and lower the gearbox on a jack. Refill the gearbox and cooling system afterwards.
Fits: platform codes 2.2, SKYACTIV-D, 150, |, 175
- Opens: coolant, gearbox oil
- Renewed: bolt egr pipe
Don't miss
- Fit the engine support tool before removing the engine support and the upper bell housing bolts.
- Renew the throttle body and EGR cooler gaskets and the bolts marked for renewal.
- Disconnect the steering column from the steering box before dropping the subframe.
- Refill the gearbox and the cooling system before the first start.
- On cars with regenerative braking, free the wiring loom from the front cross member first.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
🔧 Engine codes this applies to
📐 18 workshop diagrams for SH
Real factory drawings for this job — timing marks, bolt locations and routing. Locked in the free view.
📋 Procedure
- Disconnect the battery
- Remove the engine upper cover
- Remove the engine lower cover (two parts)
- Disconnect the air filter hoses
- Disconnect the vacuum hose from the air inlet
- Renew the gasket
- Renew the gaskets
- Renew the gaskets
- Remove the air filter together with the air duct
- Disconnect the breather hose
- Remove the air hose between the turbo and the air filter
- Remove the turbocharger outlet pipe
- Throttle body:
- Remove the throttle body
- Remove the inlet manifold cover
- Renew the bolt
- EGR pipe:
- Remove the EGR pipe
- Disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum pump
- Remove the battery securing clamp
- Remove the battery tray
- Subframe, rear bolts:
- Stud bolt(s):
- Disconnect the gear-shift cables from the gearbox
- Gear-shift control bracket:
- Remove the gear-shift control bracket
- Solenoid valve:
- Remove the solenoid valve(s)
- Remove the ground cable from the gearbox
- Inlet manifold
- Starter motor
- Neutral position sensor:
- Disconnect the neutral position sensor
- Reversing light switch:
- Disconnect the reversing light switch from the gearbox
- Remove the front exhaust bracket from the gearbox (if fitted)
- Disconnect the wiring loom bracket at the gearbox
- Move aside
- Remove both front wheels
- Unclip the brake hose(s)
- Wheel speed sensor:
- Disconnect the wheel speed sensors
- Disconnect the tie rods
- Disconnect the stabiliser link(s)
- Disconnect the lower arm ball joints
- Remove the drive shafts
- Clutch slave cylinder:
- Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the gearbox
- Disconnect the starter motor electrical connections
- Remove the starter motor
- With regenerative braking system:
- Disconnect the wiring loom from the front cross member
- All vehicles:
- Place a trolley jack under the subframe
- Disconnect the steering column from the steering box
- Remove the pendulum support
- Remove the bracket
- Disconnect the exhaust support
- Remove the subframe
- Engine support tool:
- Fit the special tool to support the engine
- Remove the engine/gearbox upper attaching bolts
- Remove the engine support
- Support the gearbox with a trolley jack
- Remove the engine/gearbox lower attaching bolts
- Lower the gearbox slightly
- Remove the gearbox
- Refill the cooling system
- Refill the gearbox
Ask TorqFix about your Mazda SH — it answers with the exact sequence for that engine and the workshop drawing for each step. First question is free after a 20-second sign-up, no card.
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
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The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.