6 (GH) - G35M-R / G66M-R gearbox — MAZDA
6 (GH) - G35M-R / G66M-R gearbox on Mazda: 116 steps, engines L5, L8, LF, R2. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
Workshop procedure for MAZDA — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.
🧭 Before you start
Fits: platform codes 1.8, MZR, |, 2.0, CITD, DPF, 2.2, 2.5, 16V
- Opens: coolant, power steering fluid, gearbox oil
- Timing position: the crankshaft or camshaft is set and locked during this job
- Special tools named: locking pin
📋 Procedure
Preparation and removal
- Disconnect the battery
- Oxygen sensor
- Cross member:
- Thread-locking compound:
- Engine support tool:
- Remove the air filter together with the air duct and resonance duct
- Drain the coolant
- Disconnect the two water hoses leading to the throttle body
- Remove the air filter/throttle body air hose
- Remove the throttle body
- Remove both front wheels
- Remove both front wheel arch liners
- Remove the engine lower covers
- Remove the middle exhaust pipe
- Remove the underbody cover
- Remove the oxygen sensors
- Remove the front exhaust pipe
- Lock the steering wheel in centre position
- Disconnect the steering column from the steering box
- Drain the power steering fluid
- Collect the escaping fluid in a container
- Disconnect the power steering pump lines
- Remove the cross member
- Disconnect the connector
- Disconnect the mounting clips
- Remove the locking pin
- Remove the headlight levelling sensor
- Disconnect the wheel speed sensors
- Unclip the brake hose(s)
- Disconnect the steering arm ball joints from the wheel bearing housings
- Use a special tool:
- Remove the power steering pump
- Remove the shock absorber lower bolts
- Remove the lower suspension arms
- Remove the pendulum support
- Unclip the coolant pipe support bracket
- Loosen the charcoal filter vacuum hose
- Vehicles with electronic power steering:
- Remove the electronic control unit support
- All vehicles:
- Remove the cross member
- Disconnect the stabiliser link(s)
- Place a trolley jack under the subframe
- Remove the subframe support plates
- Remove the subframe together with the anti-roll bar
- Drain the gearbox oil
- Collect the escaping fluid in a container
- Disconnect the earth cable from the gearbox
- Disconnect the reversing light switch from the gearbox
- Disconnect the neutral position sensor
- Disconnect the gearbox wiring
- Disconnect the wiring loom bracket
- Disconnect the gear-shift cables from the gearbox
- Remove the gear-shift control bracket
- Remove the clutch slave cylinder
- Note: Without disconnecting the lines, place the hydraulic pump aside
- Remove the heater hose bracket
- Disconnect the starter motor electrical connections
- Remove the starter motor
- Remove the engine/gearbox upper attaching bolts
- Remove the drive shaft nuts
- Unclip the brake hose(s)
- Remove the front drive shafts
- Engine support bracket:
- Remove the vacuum reservoir (if equipped)
- Fit the special tool to support the engine
Installation and checks
- Refill the cooling system
- Check the headlight levelling sensor
- Refill the gearbox
- Wheel bolts
- Check that the reversing light only operates in the 'R' position
- Cross member:
- Subframe support:
- Lower the gearbox slightly
- Starter motor
- Intermediate drive shaft
- Bolts, gearbox support:
- Bolt, gearbox support:
- Engine to gearbox:
Other MAZDA procedures
- Mazda 6 2007 timing chain replacement
- 6 (GH) - 2007-> clutch
- Mazda 6, F3 timing chain replacement
- 6 (GG/GY) - G35M-R / G66M-R gearbox
- LF, L8 , MZR 2.0 DISI drive belt
- Remove MPV GY cylinder head – Mazda GY
- Mazda 6 Turbo 2.0 diesel timing belt replacement
- Mazda 3 2003 L3/LF timing chain replacement
- Mazda RF timing belt replacement
- Mazda 2_Demio 2007 ZJ/ZY timing chain replacement
Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.