Remove MPV GY cylinder head: Mazda (GY)
Step-by-step remove MPV GY cylinder head for the Mazda (GY): 145 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
Taking the cylinder heads off the Mazda MPV with the 2.5 V6 GY engine means stripping both banks and the timing chain drive, so plan for a full day on the bench rather than a quick head swap. Coolant is drained, then the air filter, airflow meter, inlet manifold runner control parts, fuel rail with injectors, inlet manifold, alternator, power steering pump and air-conditioning compressor (left connected) are moved out of the way. The engine is supported while a mount is removed, the crankshaft pulley, sump and timing chain cover come off, and each chain is released with the crankshaft turned to align the marks. Two things matter most: following the staged loosening order for the bearing caps and head bolts, and keeping each bank's camshafts and caps together.
🧭 Before you start
Drain the coolant and clear the top of the engine: intake, fuel rail and injectors, inlet manifold and ancillaries. Support the engine, remove a mount, the crankshaft pulley, sump and timing chain cover. Align the timing marks, remove tensioners, guides and both chains, then remove the camshaft bearing caps, camshafts and head bolts in stages for each bank. Installation reverses removal.
Fits: platform codes 2.5, V6
- Opens: coolant, fuel
- Timing position: the crankshaft or camshaft is set and locked during this job
Don't miss
- Leave the air-conditioning compressor and power steering pump connected; hang them aside rather than opening the circuits.
- Plug the fuel line ends once disconnected.
- Do not remove the inlet manifold runner control cable bracket.
- Loosen bearing caps and cylinder head bolts in several stages, in the order shown, on each bank.
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring the marks into line before each chain comes off.
- Keep camshafts and bearing caps labelled by bank and position so they go back where they came from.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
🔧 Engine codes this applies to
📋 Procedure
- Installation is in the reverse order of removal
- Drain the coolant
- Valve cover
- Crankshaft pulley:
- Remove the battery tray
- Stage 5:
- Stage 6:
- Left cylinder head:
- Remove the coolant pump cover
- Stage 2:
- Stage 3:
- Stage 4:
- Stage 5:
- Stage 6:
- Disconnect the oil cooler hoses
- Remove:
- Remove the air filter and the air inlet hose
- Remove the mass airflow meter with hose
- Remove the bracket
- Remove the inlet manifold runner control cable
- Note: Do not remove the cable bracket
- Valve cover
- Timing cover
- Remove the idle speed control valve
- Stage 2:
- Remove the inlet manifold
- Disconnect the fuel lines
- Use a special tool:
- Note: Plug the ends of the fuel lines
- Remove the fuel rail together with the injectors
- Remove the inlet manifold runner control housing
- Remove the ancillary drive belt
- Disconnect the spark plugs and ignition coil
- Sensor ring
- Remove the oil sump
- Remove the centre drive shaft
- Remove the alternator
- Remove the air-conditioning compressor but do not disconnect
- Remove the engine hanger
- Remove engine mount No. 3
- Remove the power steering pump pulley
- Remove the power steering pump but do not disconnect the lines
- Remove:
- Remove the camshaft sealing ring
- Remove the bracket
- Remove the valve cover
- Remove the alternator bracket
- Remove the crankshaft pulley centre bolt
- Remove the crankshaft pulley
- Use a special tool:
- Remove the oil seal
- Remove the timing chain cover
- Remove the crankshaft position sensor ring
- Remove the seal housing
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise
- Remove the tensioner and chain guide
- Remove the timing chain
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise by 1 2/3 turns
- Remove the tensioner and chain guide
- Remove the timing chain
- Remove the crankcase breathers
- Remove the water pipe
- Right cylinder head:
- Remove the bolts
- In several stages
- Remove the camshaft bearing caps
- Remove the bolts
- In several stages
- In the order shown
- Remove the camshaft bearing caps
- Remove the camshafts
- Loosen the cylinder head bolts
- In several stages
- In the order shown
- Remove the cylinder head bolts
- Remove the cylinder head
- Left cylinder head:
- Remove the bolts
- In several stages
- Remove the camshaft bearing caps
- Remove the bolts
- In several stages
- In the order shown
- Remove the camshaft bearing caps
- Remove the camshafts
- Loosen the cylinder head bolts
- In several stages
- In the order shown
- Remove the cylinder head bolts
- Remove the cylinder head
- Fit the bearing caps
- Tighten the bolts
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- Dismantling and assembling cylinder block, crankshaft and flywheel
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- Servicing TIC-H ignition system
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.