TorqFix

6 (GH) - A26M-R gearbox (RF engine) — MAZDA

6 (GH) - A26M-R gearbox (RF engine) on Mazda: 100 steps, engines RF. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.

This is gearbox removal for the Mazda 6 (GH) with the RF 2.0 CiTD DPF diesel and the A26M-R manual gearbox. Because it is a transverse front-wheel-drive car, a lot comes off before the box is free: battery and tray, air filter and intake hoses, the turbo outlet pipe, EGR cooler and valve, both wheels and arch liners, under covers and cross member. Coolant and gearbox oil are drained, the exhaust sensors unplugged, and the shift cables, slave cylinder and starter removed. On the suspension side the shock lower bolts, stabiliser links and steering ball joints are released, the subframe is supported on a trolley jack and the drive shafts and intermediate shaft come out. The deciding factor is supporting the engine with the support tool before the mount and gearbox support are removed.

100 steps 1 engine code

🧭 Before you start

Disconnect and remove the battery, air intake parts, turbo outlet pipe and EGR parts, drain coolant and gearbox oil and strip the underside. Disconnect sensors, shift cables, slave cylinder and starter, remove the upper bell housing bolts, then free the suspension and steering joints, lower the subframe supports and remove the drive shafts. Support the engine, remove its mount and the gearbox support, drop the box on a jack and lower it out. Refit, then refill gearbox and cooling system.

Fits: platform codes 2.0, CITD, DPF

  • Opens: coolant, gearbox oil

Don't miss

  • Fit the engine support tool before removing the engine support bracket and mount.
  • Set the clutch slave cylinder aside without opening the hydraulic lines.
  • Support the subframe on a trolley jack before removing its support plates.
  • Unclip the brake hoses before moving the hub carriers, so they are not stretched.
  • Use thread-locking compound where specified on refitting.
  • Refill both the gearbox oil and the cooling system before the first start.

Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.

🔧 Engine codes this applies to

RF

📋 Procedure

  1. Disconnect the battery
  2. Remove the battery and battery box
  3. Disconnect the air filter hoses
  4. Disconnect the oil breather pipe from the air filter
  5. Remove the air hose between the turbo and the air filter
RF? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. Engine support tool:
  2. Remove the air filter
  3. Drain the coolant
  4. Collect the escaping fluid in a container
  5. Remove the turbocharger outlet pipe
  6. Disconnect the EGR vacuum hose
  7. Remove the EGR cooler
  8. Remove the EGR valve
  9. Remove both front wheels
  10. Remove both front wheel arch liners
  11. Remove the engine lower covers
  12. Remove the cross member
  13. Remove the underbody cover
  14. Disconnect the oxygen sensor
  15. Disconnect both exhaust gas temperature sensors
  16. Exhaust pipe to catalytic converter:
  17. Remove the headlight levelling sensor
  18. Thread-locking compound:
  19. Gearbox drain plug:
  20. Drain the gearbox oil
  21. Collect the escaping fluid in a container
  22. Disconnect the neutral position sensor
  23. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor plug
  24. Disconnect the reversing light switch from the gearbox
  25. Disconnect the gear-shift cables from the gearbox
  26. Gear-shift control bracket:
  27. Remove the gear-shift control bracket
  28. Clutch slave cylinder:
  29. Remove the clutch slave cylinder
  30. Note: Without disconnecting the lines, place the hydraulic pump aside
  31. Disconnect the starter motor electrical connections
  32. Starter motor:
  33. Remove the starter motor
  34. Engine to gearbox:
  35. Remove the engine/gearbox upper attaching bolts
  36. Shock absorber, lower bolt(s):
  37. Remove the shock absorber lower bolts
  38. Front stabiliser link(s):
  39. Disconnect the stabiliser link(s)
  40. Steering ball joints
  41. Disconnect the steering arm ball joints from the wheel bearing housings
  42. Use a special tool:
  43. Engine support bracket:
  44. Remove the engine support bracket
  45. Pendulum support to engine:
  46. Remove the pendulum support
  47. Place a trolley jack under the subframe
  48. Remove the subframe support plates
  49. Power steering:
  50. Remove the power steering pump
  51. Unclip the brake hose(s)
  52. Drive shaft nuts:
  53. Remove the front drive shafts
  54. Remove the intermediate drive shaft
  55. Disconnect the earth cable from the gearbox
  56. Disconnect the gearbox wiring
  57. Disconnect the wiring loom bracket
  58. Fit the special tool to support the engine
  59. Remove the engine support
  60. Support the gearbox with a trolley jack
  61. Bolts, gearbox support:
  62. Bolt, gearbox support:
  63. Remove the remaining engine/gearbox attaching bolts
  64. Lower the gearbox slightly
  65. Remove the gearbox
  66. Refill the cooling system
  67. Refill the gearbox

Other MAZDA procedures

Who makes these pages, and how

TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com

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Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.