Removing gearbox on vehicles with 2.0 ltr. TDI engine (common rail) — AUDI
Removing gearbox on vehicles with 2.0 ltr. TDI engine (common rail) on Audi: 77 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
Workshop procedure for AUDI — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.
🧭 Before you start
Fits: Audi A3 (8P, 2003–2012)
- Opens: brake fluid
Don't miss
- (Item 2) can be disregarded.
- Take up weight of engine evenly with spindles; do not lift.
- With vehicle still standing on its wheels, slacken off front left flange bolt (2) 90° (maximum). Do not slacken further, as this would damage the wheel bearing.
- To prevent damage, the flexible joints in the front exhaust pipe must not be bent further than 10°.
- Make sure you do not damage surface coating on drive shaft.
📋 Procedure
- ⚠ When disconnecting the battery there is a risk of serious damage to electronic components:Observe the correct procedure for disconnecting the battery Electrical system27. — Press release tab (arrow) and remove cover (1) over battery.
- With ignition switched off, disconnect and remove battery 27.
- Carefully detach engine cover panel from retaining studs (arrows) one by one. Pull out engine cover panel evenly, without jerking.
- Remove air cleaner housing 23.
- Press release tabs and disconnect crankcase breather hose (1) from cylinder head cover.
- Move clear vacuum hoses (arrows) at air pipe.
- Release hose clip (2) and detach air pipe.
- Remove bolts (arrows) and take out battery mounting (1) .
- Detach securing clip (3) for gear selector cable from gearbox selector lever (1) and pull cable off pin (arrow).
- Detach securing clip (4) for gate selector cable from gate relay lever (2) and pull cable off pin (arrow).
- Pull locking mechanism forwards in direction of (arrow 1) onto stop and then turn to left in direction of (arrow 2) to lock.
- Then press gate relay lever forwards (in direction of (arrow 3)).
- Plastic gate relay lever is removed at a later stage together with cable end-piece.
- Detach cable support bracket from gearbox (arrows); then move to one side and tie up together with selector cables.
- Unscrew top engine/gearbox securing bolts (arrows).
- Remove the two top bolts on radiator cowl (top arrows).
- Detach seal (1). [Note: (Item 2) can be disregarded.]
- Swivel bonnet seal (1) inwards on left and right (arrow)
- Press off fastening element (2) with removal lever80 - 200.
- Move clear bonnet seal and press to the side.
- Position support bracket10 - 222 A on wing mounting flanges with adapter T40093/6.
- Engage hooks on spindles of support bracket into engine lifting eyes.
- Take up weight of engine evenly with spindles; do not lift.
- With vehicle still standing on its wheels, slacken off front left flange bolt (2) 90° (maximum). Do not slacken further, as this would damage the wheel bearing.
- Raise vehicle.
- Remove the left front wheel.
- Remove noise insulation (centre) (1)50.
- Remove frame for noise insulation (arrow)50.
- Remove wheel housing liner (front left) (fasteners 1 ... 3).
- Lift retaining clip (1) and loosen hose clip (2) to remove air hose.
- Detach electrical connector (1).
- Remove remaining bolts (bottom arrows) and take out radiator cowl from below.
- Unplug connector (2) from reversing light switch F4.
- Unscrew nut (1) and detach bracket from stud together with electrical wiring.
- Unscrew bottom bolt securing starter (1).
- Place starter to side onto longitudinal member (top).
- Disconnect exhaust system at clamp (arrows). [Note: To prevent damage, the flexible joints in the front exhaust pipe must not be bent further than 10°.]
- Unbolt bracket for exhaust system (arrows) and pull bracket off retaining pins.
- Unplug electrical connector (1) at oil level and oil temperature sender G266.
- Unclip bracket (2) for electrical wiring leading to oil level and oil temperature sender G266 at subframe.
- Remove bolts (1 ... 3) and detach pendulum support.
- Unbolt heat shield for drive shaft (right-side) (arrows).
- Remove drive shafts (left and right) from gearbox flange shafts (A). [Note: Make sure you do not damage surface coating on drive shaft.]
- Unscrew bolt (arrow) and remove small flywheel cover plate (A). [Note: In the following steps make sure that no brake fluid escapes onto the starter or onto the gearbox below. If this does happen, clean the affected area thoroughly.]
- Using hose clamp3094, clamp off supply hose to master cylinder.
- Pull clip (arrow) out as far as stop.
- Pull pipe/hose assembly (A) out of bleeder connection for slave cylinder and seal end of pipe.
- ⚠ Do not operate clutch pedal after disconnecting pipe/hose assembly. — Detach earth wire (B) from starter bolt (top).
- Then remove upper securing bolt from starter (B).
- Place starter to side onto longitudinal member.
- Remove bolts on gearbox mounting (arrows).
- By adjusting spindles on support bracket10 - 222 A, lower gearbox by distance (a). [Note: When lowering the gearbox make sure that all hose and pipe connections are not under tension.Pay attention to coolant hose between engine and heat exchanger, do not overstretch.]
- Unbolt gearbox bracket from gearbox (arrows).
- Pull off securing clip (arrow) and remove gate relay lever (1).
- Press in detent (arrow 1) as far as stop and remove gate relay lever together with cable end-piece (move relay lever in normal direction of operation).
- Drill two 7 mm diameter holes in support T10036, as illustrated (if holes have not already been drilled).
- Bolt support T10036 onto subframe (arrows) using two M6×20 bolts.
- Bolt engine support3300 A onto support T10036.
- Press engine towards front of vehicle using spindle of engine support3300 A. Pay special attention to the following points:
- Remove flange bolt (2) and detach drive shaft (left-side) (1). [Note: The wheel bearing must not be subjected to load after the bolt (2) securing the drive shaft has been slackened.]
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
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The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.