Removing and installing lower link — AUDI
Removing and installing lower link on Audi: factory workshop procedure. Full factory text, tools and checks.
Workshop procedure for AUDI — the factory write-up, straight from real workshop data.
📋 Procedure
ℹ️ Torque figures below come verbatim from workshop data — always cross-check against your vehicle's factory manual before final tightening.
Special tools and workshop equipment required
V.A.G 1331 Torque wrench
V.A.G 1332 Torque wrench
3208 Suction grip
Removing
Vehicle standing on its wheels over lifting platform
Detach wheel trim. In the case of light alloy wheels, use puller from vehicle tool kit or suction grip -3208- to remove trim cap.
Slacken off wheel bolts.
Raise vehicle.
Remove wheels.
Unscrew speed sensor holder -arrows-.
Draw off brake fluid from reservoir.
Unscrew brake pipe at locations marked with -arrows- in Fig.
Notes:
If applicable, pay attention to headlight range control =>Page
42-45
.
Removal and installation of rear axle or lower link involves unfastening connecting link of rear left/rear right vehicle level sender -G76/ -G77 at lower link.
Remove lower link/suspension strut bolted joint -arrow 1-.
Remove parking brake cable from link.
=> Brake System; Repair Group 46; Removing and installing handbrake cables
Brake System
Removing and installing handbrake cables
Note:
Do not pull on handbrake cable as this would alter handbrake setting.
Remove wheel bearing housing/lower link eccentric bolt -arrow 2-.
Remove both subframe/lower link bolts -arrow-.
In the interests of clarity Fig. only shows one bolt.
Take out link.
Installing
Install in reverse order.
For bolts and nuts to be replaced as well as tightening torques, refer to => Page
42-51
.
Tightening torques for brake pipe bolted joint
=> Brake System; Repair Group 47; Brake Pipes; Tightening torques
Brake System
Brake Pipes
Tightening torques
Bleed brake system.
=> Brake System; Repair Group 47; Bleeding brake system
Brake System
Bleeding brake system
Pre-tighten bolted joint for wheel bearing housing/lower link and shock absorber/lower link to 20 Nm.
Wheel bearing housing/lower link and shock absorber/lower link bolted joints must be secured with vehicle standing on its wheels.
Otherwise, bonded rubber bush would be subject to torsion and its service life shortened.
Attach connecting link of rear left/rear right vehicle level sender -G76/ -G77 to lower link => Page
42-45
.
Fit and secure wheels => Page
44-1
.
Slacken off wheel bearing housing/lower link and shock absorber/lower link bolted joints.
Bounce vehicle several times.
Tighten bolted joint for wheel bearing housing/lower link and shock absorber/lower link to prescribed torque.
Check setting of handbrake and adjust handbrake if necessary.
=> Brake System; Repair Group 46; Removing and installing handbrake lever; Adjusting handbrake
Brake System
Removing and installing handbrake lever
Adjusting handbrake
Perform wheel alignment => Page
44-13
.
TorqFix answers live for your specific car — tell it the engine code and it serves the matching sequence, torque figures and wiring for that exact variant.
Ask about my car →🎬 Video walkthrough
Independent video tutorial by AUTODOC (YouTube) — a helpful visual companion to the steps above.
How to change front suspension arm on AUDI A4 B5 Saloon
Other AUDI procedures
- Removing and installing toothed belt – Audi · 56 torque figures
- Removing engine – Audi A8 D3 · 41 torque figures
- Removing camshaft timing chain from camshafts – Audi A6/A7 C7 · 38 torque figures
- Installing engine – Audi A8 D4 · 36 torque figures
- Removing and installing camshaft timing chain · 29 torque figures
- Checking fuel delivery rate - vehicles with 3.0 ltr. TFSI engine
- Checking delivery rate of fuel pump G6 - 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder engines (generation II) and 4-cylinder EA 288 engines (generation I)
- Removing and installing gas discharge bulb L13/L14 - up to model year 2012
- Removing and installing printed circuit board – Audi Q5
- Removing and installing rear brake pads (PR 1KF and 2EA)
Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.