Removing and installing bottom section of sump — AUDI
Removing and installing bottom section of sump on Audi: 14 steps, engines CPWA, CZCA, CZCB. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
Removing and refitting the lower, bolted-on section of the sump on engines CPWA, CZCA and CZCB on the SA platform code. The noise insulation comes off if fitted, the oil is drained, and the connector on oil level and temperature sender G266 is unplugged. The bolts are released in reverse order, 19 down to 1, then the pan is levered at the marked point and cut free of its sealant with a scraper, with the engine openings covered against dirt. Cleaning the faces is most of the work: sealant remover, a flat scraper on the upper half, a rotating plastic brush on the lower half, then degreasing. The timing that follows decides the seal: fit the pan within 5 minutes of laying the bead and wait about 30 minutes before oil goes back in.
🧭 Before you start
Drain the oil, unplug G266, unbolt the pan in sequence and cut it off the sealant. Clean both faces down to bare metal, lay a bead from a nozzle cut to approx. 2 mm, fit and torque the pan within the time window, let it cure, then refill and check the oil level.
Fits: VW Caddy IV (SA, 2015–2020)
- Opens: engine oil
Don't miss
- Loosen bolts in the sequence 19 to 1.
- Lever only at the marked point; cover the open engine against debris.
- Check the sealant use-by date and cut the nozzle to approx. 2 mm.
- Do not lay the bead thicker than specified; excess can enter the lubrication system.
- Install within 5 minutes; let sealant cure approx. 30 minutes before adding oil.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
📋 Procedure
- If fitted, remove noise insulation General body repairs, exterior66Noise insulation; Removing and installing noise insulation.
- Drain engine oil 40Descriptions of work; Engine oil: Draining or extracting; Renewing oil filter and replenishing engine oil.
- Disconnect electrical connector (arrow) on oil level and oil temperature sender G266.
- Loosen and unscrew bolts in the sequence (19 … 1).
- Fit a suitable screwdriver at the position marked with an (arrow) and carefully lever lower part of sump.
- Carefully detach lower part of sump from adhesive bond using a commercially available scraper. [Note: Risk of soiling lubrication system.Cover open parts of engine.]
- Spray sealing surface with sealant remover and leave to act.
- Remove sealant residues from sump upper part with a flat scraper.
- Remove sealant residue from bottom section of sump using, e.g., a rotating plastic brush.
- Remove any oil and grease from sealing surfaces. [Note: Observe use-by-date of sealant.]
- Cut off nozzle on tube at front marking (diameter of nozzle approx. 2 mm).
- Apply sealant bead (arrow) to clean sealing surface of bottom sump section. [Note: Take particular care when applying sealant bead in area of the sealing flange.The lower part of sump must be installed within 5 minutes after sealant is applied.Do not apply sealant bead thicker than specified.]
- Position bottom section of sump and tighten bolts . [Note: Allow sealant to cure for approx. 30 minutes after installing lower part of sump. Only then fill with engine oil.]
- Replenish engine oil and check oil level 40Descriptions of work; Engine oil level: Checking.
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TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
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The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.