TorqFix

Checking knock sensors: Audi TT Mk1 (AJK, ARE, ARX, ARY, …)

Step-by-step checking knock sensors for the Audi TT Mk1: 14 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.

Knock sensor checks on the Audi engines listed here (codes AJK, ARE, ARX, ARY, AUM, AUQ, AZA, BAM, BES, BFV, BVP, BVR, platform codes listed below) follow a fixed order: rule out the sensor, then the wiring, then the sensor again on the bench. Knock sensors G61 and G66 are unplugged in the engine compartment and checked with a multimeter for shorts between contacts 1, 2 and 3. A short there means a new sensor. If the sensor passes, the harness is checked through test box V.A.G 1598/31 with the engine control unit left disconnected, looking for open circuits and shorts to positive or earth. The last stage is a resistance check across contacts 1 and 2 with the sensor removed. Doing it in that order stops you renewing a sensor when the fault is in the loom.

14 steps 12 engine codes engine codes merged from 4 documented variants

🧭 Before you start

Unplug the knock sensor connector and check for shorts between contacts (1 + 2), (1 + 3) and (2 + 3); renew the sensor if any are shorted. Connect the 121-pin test box V.A.G 1598/31 to the engine harness without the control unit and check the wiring for open circuit and shorts to positive or earth, repairing as needed. Finally remove the sensor and measure resistance between contacts (1) and (2).

Fits: Audi TT Mk1 (8N)

  • Special tools named: V.A.G 1598/31
  • Renewed: knock sensor

Don't miss

  • Do not connect the engine control unit to the test box while checking the wiring.
  • Check all three contact pairs for shorts before condemning the wiring.
  • Identify which sensor you are testing: G61 is item 1, G66 is item 2.
  • A knock sensor must sit clean and flat on its boss; general practice is to clean the mounting face before refitting.

Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.

🔧 Engine codes this applies to

📋 Procedure

  1. Unplug connector of knock sensor 1G61(item 1) or knock sensor 2G66(item 2) in engine compartment.
  2. Check for short circuits between the wires. Consecutively connect multimeter (voltage measurement range) to contacts (1 + 2), (1 + 3) and (2 + 3).
  3. If there is a short circuit between the contacts, fit a new knock sensor.
  4. Check the wiring.
  5. Connect adapter cable, 121-pin V.A.G 1598/31 (test box) to wiring harness for engine control unit, but do not connect the engine control unit itself .
AJK? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. Check for open circuit and short to positive or earth in the following wiring:
  2. Repair wiring connection if necessary.
  3. Remove knock sensor.
  4. Unplug electrical connector.
  5. Connect multimeter (resistance measurement range) between contacts (1) and (2) on knock sensor.
  6. Renew knock sensor.
  7. Connect adapter cable, 121-pin V.A.G 1598/31 (test box) to wiring harness for engine control unit, but do not connect the engine control unit itself .
  8. Check for open circuit and short to positive or earth in the following wiring:
  9. Repair wiring connection if necessary.

Who makes these pages, and how

TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

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Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.