Removing bevel box, vehicles with turbo diesel engine, up to 05.15 — VW
Removing bevel box, vehicles with turbo diesel engine, up to 05.15 on VW: 29 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
This covers taking the bevel box off a 4MOTION turbo diesel built up to 05.15 on the Sharan II/Alhambra (7N) and Tiguan I (5N). The right side of the car has to be opened up: wheel, noise insulation and wheel housing liner off, the auxiliary heater pump tied aside, the coupling rod and lower link swivel joint undone, the exhaust split behind the particulate filter and the right drive shaft removed. The propshaft is marked, unbolted and pushed back onto the subframe, then the pendulum support comes off and the engine is pushed forwards with support T10533 so the gearbox carrier and stub shaft bolt can be removed. Two details matter most: loosen the right flange bolt no more than 90° with the car on its wheels, and mark the propshaft before separating it.
🧭 Before you start
With the car on its wheels, slacken the front right drive shaft flange bolt, then lift it and strip the right side: wheel, insulation, liner, V488 pump, coupling rod and swivel joint. Separate the exhaust after the particulate filter, remove the right drive shaft, mark and unbolt the propshaft and lay it on a cloth on the subframe. Remove the pendulum support, push the engine forwards with T10533, take off the gearbox carrier and the right stub shaft bolt, then unbolt the bevel box and turn it out past engine and subframe. Fit sealing cap T10381 in the gearbox.
Fits: VW Sharan II / SEAT Alhambra (7N, 2010–), VW Tiguan I (5N, 2007–2016)
Don't miss
- Loosen the front right flange bolt 90° at most with the car on its wheels, or the wheel bearing suffers.
- Mark the propshaft flexible coupling against the bevel box output shaft before unbolting.
- Protect the seal in the propshaft centring bush when pushing the propshaft back.
- Keep engine and gearbox clear of the radiator cowl when pushing them forward with T10533.
- Turn the bevel box as it comes off so it does not jam on engine or subframe.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
📋 Procedure
- With vehicle standing on its wheels, loosen front right flange bolt (arrow) 90° at most, or wheel bearing will be damaged Running gear, axles, steering40Drive shaft; Removing and installing drive shaft.
- Remove front right wheel.
- Remove noise insulation General body repairs, exterior66Noise insulation; Removing and installing noise insulation.
- Remove front right wheel housing liner General body repairs, exterior66Wheel housing liner; Removing and installing front wheel housing liner.
- Pull connector (1) off oil level and oil temperature sender G266.
- Disconnect connector for auxiliary pump for heating V48819Coolant pump, thermostat; Assembly overview - electric coolant pump.
- Unscrew securing bolt for auxiliary pump for heating V488, and tie up pump on the side 19Coolant pump, thermostat; Removing and installing electric coolant pump.
- Remove right coupling rod (1) from anti-roll bar Running gear, axles, steering40Subframe; Removing and installing coupling rod.
- Unscrew nuts (arrows) for swivel joint on lower right suspension link.
- ⚠ Risk of damage to decoupling element.26Emission control system; Exploded view - emission control system — Separate exhaust downstream from diesel particulate filter, and tie it up 26Emission control; Assembly overview - emission control.
- Remove right drive shaft Running gear, axles, steering40Drive shaft; Removing and installing drive shaft.
- If fitted, unscrew bolts (arrows) on bevel box, and remove heat shield (1).
- Mark position of propshaft with flexible coupling relative to output shaft of bevel box (arrows).
- Unbolt propshaft at front from bevel box (arrows).
- If necessary, use counterhold tool T10172A for loosening and tightening propshaft. [Note: Now, the propshaft is held in position solely by the centring pins on bevel box.]
- Push propshaft at front back to stop. Make sure not to damage seal (arrow) in centring bush.
- Place a cloth on subframe to prevent damage to paintwork structure of propshaft.
- Place propshaft at front onto subframe.
- Remove pendulum support.
- Use two bolts (arrows) to secure engine support T10533 to subframe and gearbox as shown in illustration.
- Force engine/gearbox as far forwards as possible by turning spindle of engine support T10533. [Note: Avoid any contact between components and radiator cowl.]
- Unscrew bolts (A) and (B), and remove gearbox carrier (1).
- Remove retaining ring (arrow A) and O-ring (arrow B) from right stub shaft.
- Use socket T10107A to unscrew and remove countersunk bolt for right stub shaft. Use counterhold tool T10371 for this.
- Unscrew upper securing bolts (arrows) for joining bevel box to manual gearbox using hexagon key extension, 8 mm3247.
- Remove lower securing bolts (arrows) for joining bevel box to gearbox.
- Carefully press bevel box off gearbox and remove.
- Turn bevel box during removal to ensure it does not get jammed on engine and subframe.
- Install sealing cap T10381 in gearbox.
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
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The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.