Removing and installing alternator, vehicles with 2.0 l TDI engine — VW
Removing and installing alternator, vehicles with 2.0 l TDI engine on VW: 19 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
Alternator removal on the 2.0 TDI for the platform codes listed below is a front-end job with more preparation than the alternator itself suggests. The belt tensioner comes off, then the front of the right wheel housing liner and the radiator cowl, and the coolant has to be drained so a radiator hose can be removed. The auxiliary heater exhaust pipe is also in the way. The AC compressor is lifted off its bracket and tied to the lock carrier with the refrigerant lines still connected. Only then can the two bolts come out and the alternator be drawn forward to unplug the connector, B+ terminal and clamp before it leaves downwards to the right. What decides the refit is the sliding bushes: they must move freely, or the alternator will not be clamped even at full torque.
🧭 Before you start
Disconnect the battery and remove the belt tensioner, right wheel housing liner front section and radiator cowl. Drain the coolant, remove the radiator hose and auxiliary heater exhaust pipe, then secure the AC compressor to the lock carrier without stressing its lines. Remove bolts (1), pull the alternator from its bracket, disconnect connector, B+ and clamp, and take it out downwards to the right. Slide the bushes back, refit in reverse, refill coolant and check the belt running with the engine started.
Fits: platform code 138
Don't miss
- Tie the AC compressor to the lock carrier so the refrigerant lines are not under tension.
- If the alternator is stuck, refit bolts to the last 2 turns and tap the heads to free it.
- Sliding bushes must move freely before refit, or clamping force is too low at specified torque.
- Coolant is drained for this job; refill and bleed the system before returning the car.
- Always start the engine and watch the belt run after completing the work.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
📋 Procedure
- With ignition switched off, disconnect earth cable from batteryA.
- Remove tensioner for poly V-belt 13Cylinder block (pulley end); Removing and installing tensioner for poly V-belt.
- Remove front part of right wheel housing liner 66Wheel housing liner; Removing and installing front wheel housing liner.
- Remove radiator cowl 19Radiator/radiator fan; Removing and installing radiator cowl.
- Drain off coolant 19Cooling system/coolant; Draining and filling coolant.
- Remove coolant hose from radiator 19Radiator/radiator fan; Assembly overview - radiator/radiator fan.
- Remove auxiliary heater exhaust pipe 82Auxiliary heater; Removing and installing exhaust system.
- ⚠ Risk of damage to air conditioner compressor, refrigerant lines and refrigerant hoses:Make sure refrigerant lines and hoses are not excessively stretched, kinked or bent. — Remove air conditioner compressor from bracket Heating, air conditioning system87Air conditioner compressor; Removing air conditioner compressor from and installing on bracket.
- Secure air conditioner compressor to lock carrier so that refrigerant lines are not under tension.
- Remove bolts (1). [Note: If the alternatorC(2) is stuck in its bracket, screw in bolts (1) again except for the last 2 turns.Carefully hit bolt heads with flat side of hammer to release sliding bushes of alternator mounting.]
- Remove alternatorC(2) from bracket with electrical wiring still connected.
- Disconnect connector (3).
- Pry off cap (4).
- Unscrew nut and remove terminal 30/B+ (5).
- Unscrew nut (6) and pull off clamp (7).
- Remove alternatorC(2) downwards to the right.
- To facilitate positioning of alternatorC, slide bushes of alternator mounting slightly towards back. [Note: Ensure that bushes of alternator mounting slide freely and are not to tight (loosen, if necessary); otherwise clamping force of sliding bushes is too low even if specified torque is applied.]
- Reconnect batteryA.
- Always start engine and check belt running after completing work.
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
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The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.