TorqFix

Timing chain replacement: Mercedes-Benz eng. 2.7 CDI (612.981)

Step-by-step timing chain replacement for the Mercedes-Benz eng. 2.7 CDI (612.981): 129 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.

Workshop procedure for MERCEDES-BENZ — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.

129 steps 1 engine code

🧭 Before you start

Fits: platform codes 216, CDI, |, 316, 416, 616

  • Opens: coolant, fuel
  • Timing position: the crankshaft or camshaft is set and locked during this job

Don't miss

  • Always renew the timing chain
  • If the locking clamp has been pulled off it must be renewed

🔧 Engine codes this applies to

📋 Procedure

Preparation and removal

  1. Timing chain separating tools:
  2. Always renew the timing chain
  3. Cylinder head cover
  4. Fuel lines: crown nuts
  5. Disconnect the connector
612.981? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. Check the timing marks before timing chain removal
  2. Disconnect the fuel lines from the filter
  3. Remove the support
  4. Fit the timing chain holding tool
  5. Remove the bracket
  6. Disconnect the vacuum line
  7. Disconnect the coolant hose
  8. Remove the bolt
  9. Remove the mixing chamber housing with EGR valve
  10. Remove the cylinder head cover trim
  11. Disconnect the injector wiring
  12. Remove the injection lines
  13. Turn the crankshaft to TDC for cylinder 1
  14. Lock the inlet camshaft gearwheel
  15. Use the special tool
  16. Check the camshaft timing marks
  17. Disconnect the overflow pipe
  18. Remove the cylinder head cover
  19. Use the special tools to remove the timing chain pins
  20. Remove the special tools
  21. Pull the removed timing chain pins out of the chain separating tool

Installation and checks

  1. Connect the ends of the new chain
  2. Renew the seal
  3. Fit the chain tensioner
  4. Tighten the tensioner body
  5. Refit the heat shield(s)
  6. Fit the camshafts
  7. Lock the inlet camshaft gearwheel
  8. Use the special tool
  9. Check the timing marks
  10. If necessary
  11. Renew the gaskets
  12. Tighten the bolts by hand
  13. Use the special tool
  14. Refit the injectors
  15. Renew the bolt(s)
  16. Tighten the clamp bolt(s)
  17. Stage 1:
  18. Stage 2:
  19. Reconnect the fuel return line
  20. Note: If the locking clamp has been pulled off it must be renewed
  21. Tighten the cylinder head cover bolts
  22. Reconnect the glow plug electrical connectors
  23. Refit the wiring loom to the cylinder head
  24. Reconnect the Hall sensor wiring
  25. Refit the overflow pipe
  26. Refit the crankcase breather hose
  27. Refit the injection lines
  28. Reconnect the injector wiring
  29. Refit the cylinder head cover trim
  30. Refit the mixing chamber housing with EGR valve
  31. Renew the gasket
  32. Refit the brackets
  33. Refit the bolts
  34. Reconnect the coolant hoses
  35. Reconnect the vacuum hose
  36. Reconnect the fuel lines
  37. Refit the air hose
  38. If necessary
  39. Renew the seal
  40. Reconnect the wiring loom
  41. Refill the cooling system
  42. Reconnect the battery earth cable

Who makes these pages, and how

TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com

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Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.