Timing chain replacement: KIA Cee'd 1.6 CRDi (D4FB, D4FB-L)
Step-by-step timing chain replacement for the KIA Cee'd 1.6 CRDi (D4FB/D4FB-L): 118 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
The Cee'd 1.6 CRDi 16V (D4FB) runs two chains: one for the camshafts and a second driving the high-pressure pump. Renewing them means removing the alternator, air-conditioning compressor, crankshaft pulley and the high-pressure pump, then the oil sump and strainer, with the engine on a trolley jack so the timing chain cover can come off. Tensioners, guides and rails come out before each chain. If a chain is reused, mark its running direction. Gaskets are always new. The decisive point is timing: align the marks, line the injection pump gearwheel mark up with the plated chain link, and lock the gearwheel while tightening. Never turn the engine backwards during the job.
🧭 Before you start
Support the engine, remove the alternator, compressor, crankshaft pulley, fuel return hose and high-pressure pump, then the sump, strainer and timing chain cover. Remove tensioners, guides, rails and both chains. Refit with the timing marks aligned and the pump gearwheel mark on the plated link, fit the tensioners and guides, lock and tighten the pump gearwheel, then refit the cover with a new seal, the sump, pump, pulley, alternator and head cover with new gaskets.
Fits: platform codes 1.6, CRDI, 16V
- Timing position: the crankshaft or camshaft is set and locked during this job
- Special tools named: locking tool, locking pin
- Renewed: gaskets, gasket refit the injectors
Don't miss
- Align the injection pump gearwheel mark with the plated timing chain link.
- Never turn the engine opposite to its normal direction of rotation.
- Always use new gaskets, including the cylinder head cover gasket.
- Mark the running direction of any chain to be reused.
- Lock the injection pump gearwheel with its tool while tightening it.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
📐 30 workshop diagrams for D4FB
Real factory drawings for this job — timing marks, bolt locations and routing. Locked in the free view.
📋 Procedure
Preparation and removal
- Unless otherwise advised by the manufacturer, the following procedures are recommended:
- Never turn the engine in the direction opposite to that of normal operation
- Always use new gaskets
- If the timing chain is to be re-used, mark the running direction before removal
- Note: Avoid bending, torsion or traction
- Remove the alternator
- Ensure the timing mark is aligned with the plated timing chain link
- Remove the crankshaft pulley
- Align the timing marks
- Remove the high-pressure pump nut
- Remove the flywheel locking tool
- Remove the fuel return hose
- Turn the special tool clockwise
- Remove the high-pressure pump
- Remove the special tool
- Use a trolley jack to support the engine
- Remove the air-conditioning compressor
- Remove the engine support tool
- Remove the oil sump
- Remove the oil strainer
- Remove the timing chain cover
- Remove the chain tensioner
- Remove the chain guide rail
- Lock the tensioner; use a locking pin
- Remove the second chain guide
- Remove the chain tensioner rail(s)
- Remove the second chain
Installation and checks
- Refit the high-pressure pump
- Refit the fuel return hose
- Injection pump gearwheel:
- Refit the injection pump gearwheel
- Refit the nut
- Align the marks
- Refit the chain guide(s)
- Fit the secondary tensioner
- Refit the chain guide(s)
- Fit the chain tensioner
- Fit the injection pump gearwheel locking tool
- Tighten the injection pump gearwheel
- Timing chain cover:
- Fit the timing chain case oil seal
- Refit the oil sump
- Refit the crankshaft pulley
- Fit the ancillary drive belt tensioner
- Lock the tensioner; use a locking pin
- Refit the alternator
- Remove the trolley jack
- Refit the cylinder head cover
- Renew the gasket
- Refit the injectors
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Ask about your KIA D4FB — free → or sign up free to see the drawingsOther KIA procedures
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
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The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.