TorqFix

Clutch replacement: Citroen C2 MA5 (ET3J4, TU1JP, TU3JP, TU5JP4, …)

Step-by-step clutch replacement for the Citroen C2 MA5: 123 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.

Workshop procedure for CITROEN — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.

123 steps 5 engine codes

🧭 Before you start

Fits: platform codes 1.1, 8V, |, 1.4, 16V, 1.6, VTS

  • Opens: clutch fluid

Don't miss

  • Use the special tool to counterhold

🔧 Engine codes this applies to

📋 Procedure

Preparation and removal

  1. - Bleeding the hydraulic circuit
  2. All vehicles:
  3. Renew the gaskets
  4. Disconnect the battery
  5. Raise and support the vehicle with the front wheels suspended
ET3J4(KFU)? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. Remove the left wheel arch liner
  2. Exhaust pipe support
  3. Pendulum support bolts
  4. Type 1:
  5. Remove the clip
  6. Slide the tube in the direction shown
  7. Drive shaft seal fitting tool(s)
  8. Remove the clip
  9. Slide the tube in the direction shown
  10. Type 2:
  11. Remove the cover
  12. Connect a transparent pipe to the bleed hole
  13. Press and hold the clutch pedal
  14. Open the bleed screw
  15. Move as shown
  16. Allow excess fluid to drain off
  17. Close the bleed screw
  18. Release the clutch pedal
  19. Repeat the procedure 20 times
  20. Until no bubbles come out
  21. Top up the clutch fluid if necessary
  22. Disconnect the hose connected to the air-bleed valve
  23. Type 3:
  24. Remove the cover
  25. Connect a transparent pipe to the bleed hole
  26. Press and hold the clutch pedal
  27. Open the bleed screw
  28. Allow excess fluid to drain off
  29. Close the bleed screw
  30. Release the clutch pedal
  31. Repeat the procedure 20 times
  32. Until no bubbles come out
  33. Top up the clutch fluid if necessary
  34. Disconnect the hose connected to the air-bleed valve
  35. Remove the drive shaft nuts
  36. Use the special tool to counterhold
  37. Disconnect the track rod ends
  38. Note: Mark the position
  39. Use the special tools
  40. Disconnect the drive shafts from the wheel bearing housings
  41. Remove the drive shafts from the differential
  42. Plug the gearbox drive shaft hole
  43. Remove the battery cover
  44. Remove the battery
  45. Remove the air filter housing
  46. Remove the engine control unit with bracket
  47. Remove the air inlet resonator from the throttle body
  48. Remove the power steering control unit
  49. Remove the battery tray
  50. Disconnect the reversing light switch
  51. Disconnect the earth cable from the gearbox
  52. Disconnect the electrical wiring from the gearbox
  53. Disconnect the gear-shift mechanism from the gearbox
  54. Unclip the clutch hydraulic line
  55. Remove the clutch slave cylinder
  56. Disconnect the connector
  57. Remove the bolts shown
  58. Separate the exhaust system at the double clamp
  59. Remove the torque rod
  60. Remove the pendulum support
  61. Remove the bolts shown
  62. Remove the remaining engine/gearbox attaching bolts
  63. Fit the special tool to support the engine
  64. Remove the gearbox support
  65. Lower the gearbox slightly
  66. Remove the gearbox

Installation and checks

  1. Top up the oil in the gearbox
  2. Top up the clutch fluid if necessary
  3. Ball joint splitting tool:
  4. Move the hydraulic line back to close the bleed hole when clutch fluid flows out without bubbles
  5. Top up the clutch fluid if necessary
  6. Press and hold the clutch pedal
  7. Fit the clip
  8. Slide the tube in the direction shown
  9. Remove the clip
  10. Release the clutch pedal
  11. Repeat the procedure 20 times
  12. Until no bubbles come out
  13. Top up the clutch fluid if necessary
  14. Disconnect the hose connected to the air-bleed valve
  15. Refit the cover
  16. Refit the cover
  17. Press and hold the clutch pedal
  18. Press and hold the clutch pedal
  19. Measure the distance:
  20. Release the clutch pedal
  21. Bleed the hydraulic clutch system

Who makes these pages, and how

TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com

The story behind TorqFix →

Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.