Removing and installing vane pump — AUDI
Removing and installing vane pump on Audi: 21 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
Changing the power steering vane pump on the platform codes listed below is done from the front left wheel housing after the liner and poly V-belt are off. The pulley bolts are slackened while the pulley is held with pin wrench 3212, the suction hose is clamped and pulled off, and the pressure line is unbolted, with both open ends bagged to keep dirt out. The pump then comes off its retainer. Before refitting, the new pump is primed with hydraulic oil through its port and the hub turned by hand until oil comes out on the pressure side. Only the front bolts are tightened first. What decides the job is routing: lines must not chafe in this tight engine bay, and the suction hose marks must line up.
🧭 Before you start
Remove the wheel housing liner and poly V-belt, slacken the pulley bolts with the pulley counterheld, clamp and detach the suction hose and unbolt the pressure line, sealing both. Remove the pump bolts and lift the pump from its retainer. Prime the new pump, install it with the front bolts first, refit the suction hose with marks aligned and clamp on the mark, then fit the belt. Bleed the steering, check fluid level and check for leaks.
Fits: platform codes S1, 2H
- Opens: brake fluid, power steering fluid
Don't miss
- Prime the pump with hydraulic oil and turn the hub until oil emerges on the pressure side.
- Seal open hoses with plastic bags and tape to keep dirt out.
- Align suction hose marks A and B and position the clamp on mark A.
- Route lines so nothing chafes in the narrow engine compartment.
- Bleed the steering system, then check fluid level and leaks.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
📋 Procedure
- ⚠ Please note the following points during all assembly work, in particular in the engine compartment, due to the narrow installation conditions:Route lines of all kinds (for example for fuel, hydraulic fluid, activated charcoal filter system, coolant, refrigerant, brake fluid, vacuum) and electrical cables so that the original line/cable routing is re-established.Make sure there is adequate clearance from all moving or hot components. — If fitted, remove air intake hose.
- Remove front left wheel housing liner General body repairs, exterior66Exterior equipment; Wheel housing liner; Removing front wheel housing liner.
- Remove poly V-belt Power unit13Cylinder head, pulley end; Removing and installing poly V-belt.
- Unscrew bolts (arrows), counterhold poly V-belt pulley (1) with pin wrench3212 for this.
- Clamp off suction hose using hose clamps, up to 25 mm in diameter3094.
- Open spring-type clip (1) and pull suction hose off vane pump.
- Close off suction hose with a plastic bag and adhesive tape.
- Remove bolts (2) and pull pressure line out of vane pump.
- Close off pressure line with a plastic bag and adhesive tape.
- Remove bolts (arrows).
- Remove bolt (arrow) and remove vane pump from retainer. [Note: Always check steering system for leaks if fluid level in reservoir is low.If leakage appears near pipe connections, first check lines and connections for leaks, tighten connections as necessary and wipe dry.Vane pumps taken from parts stock contain no fluid. Therefore it is essential to fill vane pump with hydraulic fluidElectronic Parts Catalogue and to rotate pump by hand prior to installation. Otherwise vane pump may be damaged or be noisy during operation.Fluid type: hydraulic fluidElectronic Parts Catalogue.]
- Fill vane pump with hydraulic oil.
- Fill hydraulic oil in through connection port of vane pump.
- Turn hub by hand until oil emerges from pressure side.
- Install vane pump, initially tightening only front bolts.
- Install suction hose (1) so that marks (arrow A) and (arrow B) aline with one another.
- Mount clamp (2) on mark (arrow A).
- Install poly V-belt Power unit13Cylinder head, pulley end; Removing and installing poly V-belt.
- Bleed steering system .
- Check hydraulic fluid level .
- Check steering system for leaks .
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
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The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.