Removing and installing suspension strut, suspension strut secured with clamp — AUDI
Removing and installing suspension strut, suspension strut secured with clamp on Audi: 46 steps, 1 torque figure.
Workshop procedure for AUDI — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.
🧭 Before you start
Fits: platform codes SF, SG
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- Observe the following procedure to prevent damage to the drive shaft caused by overstretching.
- Loosen nut (1) on swivel joint but do not remove it completely.
- At the end of the procedure or for pressing out drive shaft further the spindle must be moved to its original position in order to deploy the hydraulic force!
- Loosen nut (1) on track rod ball joint but do not remove completely.
- If there is moisture in the area of the connector, blow compressed air on the contacts on the shock absorber and the connector.
🔩 Torque settings
Values can differ between engine variants — check the code stamped on your block.
| Torque | Fastener / step |
|---|---|
| 120 Nm (89 lb-ft) | ⚠ Wheel bearings must not be subjected to load after bolt securing drive shaft to wheel… |
ℹ️ Always cross-check the exact figure against your vehicle's factory manual before final tightening — a wrong torque can damage the engine. These values are extracted from workshop data and may not cover every variant or revision.
📋 Procedure
- Remove plenum chamber bulkhead General body repairs, exterior50Bulkhead; Assembly overview - plenum chamber bulkhead.
- Loosen nut for drive shaft .
- ⚠ Wheel bearings must not be subjected to load after bolt securing drive shaft to wheel hub has been loosened.If wheel bearings are loaded with weight of vehicle, bearing will be damaged. This reduces the service life of the wheel bearing.It is not permissible to loosen drive shaft bolt more than 90° if vehicle is standing on its wheels.Do not attempt to move the vehicle without the drive shafts fitted as this would damage the wheel bearing. If a vehicle nevertheless has to be moved, comply with the following:Install an outer joint instead of the drive shaft.Tighten outer joint to 120 Nm. — Loosen wheel bolts. — 120 Nm (89 lb-ft)
- Raise vehicle 20.1Description of work; Raising vehicle with lifting platform and trolley jack.
- Remove wheel.
- Unbolt coupling rod (1) from suspension strut.
- Swing coupling rod towards rear.
- Press brake line out of retainer on suspension strut.
- Pull off electrical connector for front left brake pad wear sender G34 / rear right brake pad wear sender G37Brake system46Front brake; Assembly overview - front brake.
- Pull off electrical connector for front right speed sensor G45 / front left speed sensor G47Brake system45Sensors; Removing and installing speed sensors on front axle G45/G47.
- Push wire for front left brake pad wear sender G34 / rear right brake pad wear sender G37 out of retainer on suspension strut.
- Push wire for front right speed sensor G45 / front left speed sensor G47 out of retainer on suspension strut.
- Remove brake caliper Brake system46Front brake; Removing and installing brake caliper .
- Secure brake caliper to vehicle with wire. [Note: Observe the following procedure to prevent damage to the drive shaft caused by overstretching.]
- Turn wheel hub until one of the wheel bolt holes is at the top.
- Attach support T10149 to wheel hub using wheel bolt.
- Support wheel bearing housing using engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A.
- ⚠ Never raise or lower the vehicle while the engine and gearbox jack is positioned beneath the vehicle.Do not leave the engine and gearbox jackVAS 6931 or engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A under the vehicle longer than necessary. — Unscrew nut (1).
- Pull front left vehicle level sender G78/front right vehicle level sender G289(2) out of suspension link (3).
- Loosen nut (1) on swivel joint but do not remove it completely.
- ⚠ Leave nut screwed on a few turns to protect thread on pin. — Press suspension link off swivel joint using ball joint puller T10187(2).
- Unscrew nut (1).
- Pull suspension link off swivel joint.
- Use bolts T10103/2 to secure adapterT 10103/1(1) to wheel bearing.
- To allow for pressing out drive shaft (3), secure press tool T10520(2) to wheel hub using 3 wheel bolts (3).
- It is essential to follow specified sequence. [Note: At the end of the procedure or for pressing out drive shaft further the spindle must be moved to its original position in order to deploy the hydraulic force!]
- Secure drive shaft to body with wire.
- Loosen nut (1) on track rod ball joint but do not remove completely.
- ⚠ Leave nut screwed on a few turns to protect thread on pin. — Press track rod off wheel bearing housing using ball joint puller T10187(2).
- Unscrew nut (1).
- Disconnect connector (2) on shock absorber (3).
- Pull line (3) off shock absorber (4). [Note: If there is moisture in the area of the connector, blow compressed air on the contacts on the shock absorber and the connector.]
- Separate threaded connection of shock absorber on body.
- Lower engine and gearbox jackVAS 6931 or engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A as far as necessary.
- Remove shock absorber with wheel bearing housing.
- Place shock absorber with wheel bearing housing on a suitable surface.
- Unscrew nut (1) from wheel bearing housing (3).
- Pull out bolts (2).
- Open wheel bearing housing (1) with spreader3424 at position (A).
- Remove shock absorber (2) in (direction of arrow B).
- If necessary, turn suspension strut further until this position is reached.
- Insert wheel bearing housing far enough that suspension strut sits on stop (arrow B) in wheel bearing housing.
- Insert suspension strut.
- Secure threaded connection of shock absorber on body.
- Clip line (3) into shock absorber (1).
- Connect connector (2) to shock absorber (1), and engage it audibly.
🎬 Related video tutorial
Independent AUTODOC tutorial for the same job, filmed on a different model (A4 B5 Saloon) — the technique carries over, the fasteners and figures on this page are the ones for your car.
How to change a rear shock strut on AUDI A4 B5 Saloon
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.