TorqFix

Removing and installing hydraulic steering rack — AUDI

Removing and installing hydraulic steering rack on Audi: 30 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.

Renewing the hydraulic steering rack on the 2K0 and 2C0 platforms (the 2K code is the Caddy III) means lowering the subframe, so it is more suspension and exhaust work than steering work. The universal joint is unbolted from the rack inside the car, the wheels come off and the track rod ball joints are split with their nuts left on a few turns to protect the threads. Hoses at the reservoir and the vane pump are clamped, the coupling rods are taken off the anti-roll bar, the exhaust is unbolted and removed once it has cooled, the pendulum support and rack bolts come out, and the subframe, with its position fixed and supported on a jack with a timber block, is lowered just enough to reach the hydraulic lines, then further until the rack can be taken down. Afterwards the system is bled, the steering angle sender G85 and power steering control unit J500 get their basic settings, and a road test confirms the wheel is straight.

30 steps

🧭 Before you start

Remove the trim and the universal joint bolt, then the wheels; split the track rod ball joints and remove them from the wheel bearing housings. Clamp the reservoir and vane pump hoses, remove the noise insulation, coupling rods, exhaust bracket bolts and the exhaust pipe (auxiliary heater exhaust partly removed where fitted), pendulum support bolts and steering rack bolts. Fix the subframe position, support it on the jack with squared timber, lower it slightly watching the wiring, unclip the harness, place the drip tray, unscrew and seal the hydraulic lines and lower further until the rack comes off. Install with the threaded sleeves seated in the bracket holes and the seal lubricated, bleed the power steering, carry out the G85 and J500 basic settings, and road test.

Fits: VW Caddy III (2K, 2004–2015); platform code 2C0

Don't miss

  • Leave the track rod nuts on a few turns while splitting the joints to protect the pin threads.
  • Let the silencer cool before unbolting the exhaust.
  • Seal the hydraulic lines as soon as they are off; keep sealing surfaces clean.
  • Threaded sleeves of the rack must seat in the bracket holes; moisten the seal with tyre paste before fitting.
  • Check the seal at the universal joint is seated and the track rod gaiters are not twisted.
  • After bleeding, do the G85 (with ESP) and J500 basic settings, then road test; align if the wheel is not straight.

Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.

📋 Procedure

  1. Remove plastic nuts (arrows) and remove trim from vehicle.
  2. Remove bolt (1) and pull universal joint (2) off steering rack.
  3. Remove front wheels.
  4. Remove nuts on both sides from track rod ball joint (do not unscrew). [Note: Leave nut screwed on a few turns to protect thread on pin.]
  5. Press track rod ball joints off with ball joint splitter3287 A.
AUDI? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. Unscrew nuts of track rod ball joints and remove them from wheel bearing housing.
  2. Clamp off hose from reservoir tank with hose clamps to 25 mm3094.
  3. Clamp off hose at vane pump with hose clamps to 25 mm3094.
  4. Remove lower noise insulation 50Assembly overview - noise insulation.
  5. Remove left and right securing nuts of coupling rod (1) from anti-roll bar (3).
  6. Remove coupling rods (2) on both sides from anti-roll bar (3).
  7. Remove bolts (arrows) of exhaust system bracket. [Note: Depending on the model variant and equipment, the exhaust system of the auxiliary heater must be partially removed in cars with an auxiliary heater.]
  8. ⚠ Danger of burns.The silencer may be hot.Before removing silencer, let it cool off. — Loosen nut for exhaust system clamp (arrow A).
  9. Remove bolts (arrows B).
  10. Unscrew bolts (arrow A) and (arrow B) further along exhaust pipe.
  11. Remove exhaust pipe from vehicle.
  12. Remove bolts (1) of pendulum support on gearbox.
  13. Remove bolts (2) for steering rack.
  14. Secure subframe with brackets .
  15. Fix position of subframe .
  16. Place engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A or engine and gearbox jackVAS 6931 under subframe.
  17. Place a squared timber (or similar) (1) between engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A or engine and gearbox jackVAS 6931 and subframe.
  18. Remove bolts (1) and lower subframe slightly. [Note: Watch out for electrical wiring when lowering.]
  19. Unclip electrical wiring harness from cable guide (arrow) on subframe.
  20. Position drip tray for workshop hoistVAS 6208 under subframe.
  21. Unscrew hydraulic oil lines from steering rack and seal them with suitable workshop equipment.
  22. Carefully lower subframe further until steering rack can be taken down off subframe. [Note: Threaded sleeves of steering rack must seat in holes in brackets.Moisten steering rack seal with lubricant, e.g. tyre assembly paste, before installing steering rack. Ensure sealing surfaces are clean.After installing steering rack on universal joint, ensure that seal is seated correctly. Water may otherwise enter and/or noises occur.Make sure that protective sleeves of track rods are not twisted or damaged.]
  23. Bleeding the power steering system
  24. On vehicles with ESP basic settings for steering angle sender G85 must be carried out using .
  25. Carry out basic setting for power steering control unit J500 using . [Note: Carry out a road test after the repair work. Make sure the steering wheel is in the straight-ahead position. If the steering wheel is not straight-ahead, wheels must be aligned .]

Who makes these pages, and how

TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com

The story behind TorqFix →

Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.