Removing and installing bottom part of sump: Audi A8 D2 3.3 TDI (AKF)
Step-by-step removing and installing bottom part of sump for the Audi A8 D2 3.3 TDI (AKF): 14 steps, 1 torque figure.
This covers the lower, bolted-on section of the sump on the AKF engine (platform 4D), a two-piece sump where only the bottom part is removed. It is a short job from underneath: front noise insulation off, oil drained, the oil gauge sender connector and the crankcase breather return hose detached, then the bottom part unbolted. The quality of the reseal decides everything. All old sealant has to come off both halves with a rotating plastic brush, the faces must be dry and grease-free, and the new bead must be no thicker than shown, laid from a nozzle cut at about 3 mm. Fit the pan within 5 minutes of applying the bead, nip all bolts diagonally to 5 Nm, then tighten them diagonally and refill.
🧭 Before you start
Remove the auxiliary heater exhaust bolts where fitted and the front noise insulation, then drain the oil. Unplug the oil gauge sender, detach the breather return hose and unbolt the bottom part of the sump. Clean both sealing faces completely, apply a thin sealant bead and fit the pan within the working time. Pre-tighten the bolts diagonally to 5 Nm, tighten them diagonally, then refill and check the oil level.
Fits: Audi A8 D2 (4D)
- Special tools named: V.A.G 1358
- Renewed: gaskets
Don't miss
- Sealant bead must not be thicker than shown; surplus can block the oil pump screen.
- Fit the bottom sump part within 5 minutes of applying sealant.
- Cut the tube nozzle at the front mark, about 3 mm.
- Pre-tighten all bolts diagonally to 5 Nm before final diagonal tightening.
- Wear safety goggles when brushing off old sealant; faces must be free of oil and grease.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
🔧 Engine codes this applies to
🔩 Torque settings
Values can differ between engine variants — check the code stamped on your block.
| Torque | Fastener / step |
|---|---|
| 5 Nm (3.7 lb-ft) | Fit bottom part of sump in position and pre-tighten all bolts diagonally |
ℹ️ Always cross-check the exact figure against your vehicle's factory manual before final tightening — a wrong torque can damage the engine. These values are extracted from workshop data and may not cover every variant or revision.
📋 Procedure
- On vehicles with auxiliary heater, screw out bolts (arrows) for attaching exhaust pipe of auxiliary/supplementary heater to noise insulation.
- Unfasten quick-release fasteners (1) and detach front noise insulation.
- Place used oil collector and extractorV.A.G 1782 or V.A.G 1358 A beneath engine.
- Drain off engine oil.
- Unplug connector (1) at oil gauge sender.
- Detach crankcase breather return hose (2).
- Unscrew bottom part of sump (arrow). [Note: Replace gaskets and seals.]
- Use rotating plastic brush for example to remove sealant remnants at bottom and top part of sump.
- ⚠ Wear safety goggles. — Clean sealing surfaces; surfaces must be free from oil and grease.
- Cut off tube nozzle at front mark (∅ of nozzle approx. 3 mm).
- Apply sealant bead (arrow) as shown to clean sealing surface of bottom part of sump. [Note: The sealant bead must not be thicker than indicated, as otherwise surplus sealant could ingress into the sump and clog the oil pump screen.After applying the sealant, the bottom part of the sump must be fitted within 5 minutes.]
- Fit bottom part of sump in position and pre-tighten all bolts diagonally to 5 Nm. — 5 Nm (3.7 lb-ft)
- Diagonally tighten bolts for bottom part of sump.
- Pour in engine oil and check oil level .
Other AUDI procedures
- Removing and installing right front exhaust pipe with oxidation catalytic converter
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- Removing and installing rear coolant pipe – Audi A8 D2
- Checking for injectors sticking open – Audi A6/A7 C7
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- Removing camshaft timing chain from camshafts – Audi A6/A7 C7 · 38 torque figures
- Installing engine – Audi A8 D4 · 36 torque figures
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.