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Removing and installing rear coolant pipe: Audi A8 D2 (ACK, AKF, ALG, AMX, …)

Step-by-step removing and installing rear coolant pipe for the Audi A8 D2: 23 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.

The rear coolant pipe on the 4D platform engines listed below runs along the back of the block, buried under the intake manifold and the secondary air hardware. Getting it out means draining the coolant, lifting the intake manifold, then working through a layer of smaller parts: crankcase breather hose, the G2/G62 temperature sender connector, the secondary air connecting pipe and its combination valve with their vacuum hoses, and the coolant and heater hoses. Once the wiring along the pipe is laid bare, two bolts release it. The job is mostly patience and keeping track of hoses and cable ties. What decides it is the sealing: clean, smooth O-ring seats and new seals moistened with G12+, otherwise you will be lifting the manifold a second time.

23 steps 16 engine codes engine codes merged from 3 documented variants

🧭 Before you start

Drain the coolant and remove the intake manifold. Clear the crankcase breather hose, the coolant temperature sender connector, the secondary air connecting pipe and combination valve with their vacuum hoses, and the coolant and heater hoses, then free the wiring and take out the 2 bolts holding the pipe. Clean the O-ring sealing surfaces, fit new gaskets and O-rings moistened with G12+, refit the manifold and refill the coolant.

Fits: Audi A8 D2 (4D)

  • Renewed: gaskets

Don't miss

  • Renew all gaskets and O-rings on the pipe and secondary air parts.
  • Clean and smooth the O-ring sealing surfaces before fitting the pipe.
  • Moisten new O-rings with G12+ coolant, not grease.
  • Use standard hose clamps and refit cable ties in their original positions.
  • Check the cooling system for leaks once warm and topped up; air trapped at the rear can mislead the level.

Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.

📋 Procedure

  1. Drain off coolant at engine .
  2. Remove intake manifold .
  3. Remove crankcase breather hose (arrows).
  4. Unplug connector at coolant temperature gauge sender G2/coolant temperature sender G62.
  5. Disconnect hose (arrow) from secondary air connecting pipe.
ACK? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. Disconnect vacuum hose (4) at secondary air combination valve.
  2. Screw out bolts (3).
  3. Screw out bolt (1) for connecting pipe holder.
  4. Screw out bolt at front right connecting pipe.
  5. Screw out coolant pipe bolts (2).
  6. Detach coolant hose (3).
  7. Detach coolant hose to heating system heat exchanger at rear coolant pipe.
  8. Disconnect vacuum hose (1) at secondary air combination valve.
  9. Screw out connection (4).
  10. Screw out bolt (5).
  11. Screw out bolts (2) and detach secondary air connecting pipe.
  12. Screw out bolts (7) and detach secondary air combination valve.
  13. Lay bare wires at rear coolant pipe.
  14. Screw out the 2 bolts (6) at the rear coolant pipe and detach coolant pipe. [Note: Replace gaskets and O-rings.Secure all hose connections with standard clamps Parts catalogue.Re-attach all cable ties in the same locations on installation.]
  15. Before installing, clean/smooth sealing surface for O-rings.
  16. Moisten new O-ring with “G12+” and slip onto coolant pipe.
  17. Install intake manifold .
  18. Replenish coolant .

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TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

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Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.