TorqFix

Timing chain replacement: Audi 3.2 FSi 3.1 (AUK, BKH)

Step-by-step timing chain replacement for the Audi 3.2 FSi 3.1 (AUK/BKH): 173 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.

This is the full timing chain job on the Audi 3.2 V6 FSI (AUK, BKH), including the Cabriolet. On this engine the chains run at the flywheel end, so the gearbox comes off first, followed by the drive plate or flywheel and the lower timing chain cover. From above, the engine covers, air ducts, coolant expansion tank, ignition coils and both valve covers come off, and the upper left and right chain covers are removed. With the crankshaft locked at TDC and both banks' camshafts locked, the chains, tensioners, camshaft gearwheels, oil pump drive and balance shaft chain can be taken out. The job stands or falls on accurate timing: paint marks between chain and gearwheels, locked tensioners, and counterholding the gearwheels every time they are tightened.

173 steps 2 engine codes

🧭 Before you start

Remove the gearbox and drive plate, drain the oil, take off the oil filter and the lower chain cover, then the upper covers on both banks. Turn the crankshaft to TDC, lock it and lock the camshafts on each head. Mark chains to gearwheels, lock and remove the tensioners, and take out the camshaft gearwheels, cam chains, oil pump chain and balance shaft chain. Refit in the specified order with new bolts, keeping tension on the inlet gearwheel and counterholding as you tighten. Clean off old sealant and fit the lower cover on oil-free faces, then check the timing marks before final assembly.

Fits: platform codes 3.2, V6, FSI, |, -CABRIOLET

  • Opens: engine oil
  • Timing position: the crankshaft or camshaft is set and locked during this job
  • Special tools named: locking tool

Don't miss

  • Lock the crankshaft at TDC and both banks' camshafts before any chain comes off.
  • Mark chain and gearwheels with paint before removal if parts are to be reused.
  • Use new bolts where specified and counterhold the camshaft gearwheels with the tool while tightening.
  • Keep tension on the inlet camshaft gearwheel while tightening; slack here shifts the timing.
  • Remove all old sealant and keep sealing faces free of oil and grease before refitting covers.

Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.

🔧 Engine codes this applies to

📐 28 workshop diagrams for AUK

Real factory drawings for this job — timing marks, bolt locations and routing. Locked in the free view.

3.2 FSi chain AUK — AUK · diagram 1
3.2 FSi chain AUK — AUK · diagram 2
3.2 FSi chain AUK — AUK · diagram 3
3.2 FSi chain AUK — AUK · diagram 4
3.2 FSi chain AUK — AUK · diagram 5
3.2 FSi chain AUK — AUK · diagram 6
3.2 FSi chain AUK — AUK · diagram 7
3.2 FSi chain AUK — AUK · diagram 8
+ 20 more diagrams

📋 Procedure

Preparation and removal

  1. Crankshaft turning tool:
  2. Unless otherwise advised by the manufacturer, the following procedures are recommended:
  3. Vehicles with manual gearbox:
  4. Remove the gearbox
  5. Note: The tensioner must be removed from the engine
AUK? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. Spark plug removal tool:
  2. Waste oil collection unit
  3. Use new bolts
  4. Remove the drive plate
  5. Camshaft gearwheel
  6. Remove the hoist
  7. Valve cover
  8. Remove the engine covers
  9. Disconnect the electrical connector from the coolant expansion tank
  10. Remove the coolant expansion tank and place it aside
  11. Unlock the tensioner
  12. Move the harness aside
  13. Remove the ignition coils
  14. Remove the cylinder head
  15. Remove the air ducts
  16. Remove the air inlet hose
  17. Remove the ignition coils
  18. Use the special tool
  19. Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
  20. Disconnect the connectors
  21. Remove the connector bracket
  22. Disconnect the connectors
  23. Remove the upper left timing chain cover
  24. Disconnect the connectors
  25. Right-hand bank
  26. Remove the upper right timing chain cover
  27. Remove the oil filter
  28. Drain the engine oil
  29. Use the special tool
  30. Pull the dowel sleeve out of the engine block
  31. Right cylinder head:
  32. Check the camshaft timing marks
  33. Lock the camshafts
  34. Use the special tool
  35. Left cylinder head:
  36. Lock the camshafts
  37. Use the special tool
  38. Remove the anti-roll bar
  39. Remove the plug
  40. Turn the crankshaft slowly to TDC and lock it
  41. Mark the timing chain and camshaft gearwheels to each other with paint
  42. Remove the camshaft gearwheels
  43. Remove the chain tensioner
  44. Remove the camshaft gearwheels
  45. Remove the chain tensioner
  46. Remove the chain
  47. Lock the tensioner
  48. Remove the tensioner
  49. Remove the oil pump gearwheel
  50. Remove the chain
  51. Mark the chain and the gearwheels
  52. Lock the tensioner
  53. Remove the tensioner
  54. Remove the balance shaft gearwheel(s)
  55. Remove the balance shaft chain
  56. Left-hand bank:

Installation and checks

  1. Fit the tensioner and chain as shown
  2. Fit the tensioner and chain as shown
  3. When tightening, always use the tool to counterhold
  4. Keep tension on the inlet camshaft gearwheel
  5. Tighten the inlet camshaft gearwheel
  6. Tighten the exhaust camshaft gearwheel
  7. When tightening, always use the tool to counterhold
  8. Keep tension on the inlet camshaft gearwheel
  9. Tighten the exhaust camshaft gearwheel
  10. Remove the crankshaft locking tool
  11. Fit the lower timing chain cover
  12. Ensure that the surface is free of oil and grease
  13. Refit the cover
  14. Installation sequence:
  15. Stage 3:
  16. Stage 4:
  17. Refit the timing chain upper cover
  18. Clean off the old sealant
  19. Installation sequence:
  20. Refit the valve cover
  21. Further refitting is in the reverse order of removal
  22. Fit the special tool
Workshop diagrams

Ask TorqFix about your Audi AUK — it answers with the exact sequence for that engine and the workshop drawing for each step. First question is free after a 20-second sign-up, no card.

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Who makes these pages, and how

TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

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Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.