Removing right flange shaft — VW
Removing right flange shaft on VW: 16 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
Workshop procedure for VW — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.
🧭 Before you start
Fits: platform codes 1C1, 1Y7
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- Mark installation position of bolts (arrows) for swivel joint on suspension link.
- This work step is necessary so that right drive shaft will not have to be separated from wheel bearing (wheel hub).Right drive shaft only needs to be separated from gearbox.
- Grease drill (B) so that metal chips adhere.Drill only through sheet metal ring (C) because gearbox may otherwise be damaged.Figure shows left oil seal, procedure on right oil seal is the same.
- Do not screw in sheet metal screw too far to avoid damaging bearing behind it.Figure shows left oil seal, procedure on right oil seal is the same.
- No iron chips must enter gearbox or drive shaft aperture; vacuum up chips if necessary. — Lever remainder of sealing ring out using a screwdriver (A).
📋 Procedure
- Remove noise insulation tray (arrows).
- Remove right noise insulation.
- Turn steering to right to full lock.
- Mark installation position of bolts (arrows) for swivel joint on suspension link.
- Remove bolts (arrows).
- Remove coupling rod (A) from suspension link. [Note: This work step is necessary so that right drive shaft will not have to be separated from wheel bearing (wheel hub).Right drive shaft only needs to be separated from gearbox.]
- Remove protective cover (A) for right inner constant velocity joint from engine if fitted (arrows).
- Remove right drive shaft (B) from gearbox (direction of arrow)Running gear, axles, steering40 [Note: There is no separate flange shaft in gearbox, instead drive shaft is inserted into gearbox.When levering drive shaft out of gearbox, it is only permitted to use special tool described in Workshop Manual "“Running gear, axles, steering”". If other tools are used for removal, e.g. screwdriver or pry bars, they can lead to damage to gearbox and/or drive shaft which will then have to be renewed.]
- Raise right drive shaft and secure (tie up).
- Place drip trayV.A.G 1306 underneath.
- Seal drive shaft aperture on transmission with a clean cloth (A).
- Using a commercially available iron bit (B), carefully drill a hole (size 2 to 4 mm) into outer sheet metal ring of oil seal [Note: Grease drill (B) so that metal chips adhere.Drill only through sheet metal ring (C) because gearbox may otherwise be damaged.Figure shows left oil seal, procedure on right oil seal is the same.]
- Screw a self-tapping screw, approx. 4 mm in diameter, into hole drilled in oil seal (arrow). [Note: Do not screw in sheet metal screw too far to avoid damaging bearing behind it.Figure shows left oil seal, procedure on right oil seal is the same.]
- Pull out oil seal using puller T10055 and adapter T10055/2.
- Remove cloth and carefully clean gearbox and drive shaft aperture.
- ⚠ No iron chips must enter gearbox or drive shaft aperture; vacuum up chips if necessary. — Lever remainder of sealing ring out using a screwdriver (A).
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.