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Removing and installing cylinder head, Passat: VW 1.6 TDI (CAYC)

Step-by-step removing and installing cylinder head, Passat for the VW 1.6 TDI (CAYC): 79 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.

Workshop procedure for VW — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.

79 steps 1 engine code

🧭 Before you start

Fits: VW Passat B6 (3C, 2005–2010), VW Passat B7 saloon (362, 2010–2014), VW Passat B7 Variant (365, 2010–2014)

  • Opens: coolant, brake fluid
  • Timing position: the crankshaft or camshaft is set and locked during this job
  • Special tools named: puller, 30 mm spanner
  • Renewed: cylinder head bolts

Don't miss

  • Ensure that decoupling element of connecting pipe is not bent and thus stretched. There is a danger of cracking. — Remove securing clamp (1) between particulate filter and turbocharger.
  • Counterhold hub with counterhold T10051 and loosen securing bolt (1) of hub.
  • When doing this, hold puller with 30 mm spanner.
  • A second mechanic is required to remove the cylinder head.The toothed belt tensioning roller is pulled off the stud when the cylinder head is lifted out.
  • Before fitting cylinder head, remove crankshaft stop T10050 and turn crankshaft opposite direction of rotation until all pistons are nearly uniformly below TDC.

🔧 Engine codes this applies to

📐 64 workshop diagrams for CAYC

Real factory drawings for this job — timing marks, bolt locations and routing. Locked in the free view.

Removing and installing cylinder head, Passat — CAYC · diagram 1
Removing and installing cylinder head, Passat — CAYC · diagram 2
Removing and installing cylinder head, Passat — CAYC · diagram 3
Removing and installing cylinder head, Passat — CAYC · diagram 4
Removing and installing cylinder head, Passat — CAYC · diagram 5
Removing and installing cylinder head, Passat — CAYC · diagram 6
Removing and installing cylinder head, Passat — CAYC · diagram 7
Removing and installing cylinder head, Passat — CAYC · diagram 8
+ 56 more diagrams

📋 Procedure

  1. ⚠ When doing any repair work, especially in the engine compartment, pay attention to the following due to the cramped conditions:Route all the various lines and electrical wiring so that they are in their original positions.e.g. for fuel, hydraulics, activated charcoal filter system, coolant and refrigerant, brake fluid, vacuum.Ensure that there is sufficient clearance to all moving or hot components. — Remove engine cover .
  2. Remove air filter housing together with air mass meter and intake hose .
  3. Pull vacuum line (1) off vacuum pump (2).
  4. Separate connectors.
  5. Remove electrical line from retainer (2).
CAYC? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. Pull connector (2) off pressure differential senderG 505.
  2. Remove bolts (1).
  3. Unclip lines for pressure differential senderG 505 out of upper toothed belt guard together with bracket (1).
  4. Lay pressure differential senderG 505 to side together with lines.
  5. To do this, open quick-release couplings (A) and (B) of fuel lines.
  6. Catch any escaping fuel.
  7. Remove cylinder head cover .
  8. Unclip vacuum lines (arrow) and lay to side.
  9. Detach vacuum line (2).
  10. Lay vacuum lines to side.
  11. Separate electrical connector (1) on oil pressure switch F1.
  12. Remove bolt (arrow).
  13. Disconnect electrical connector (4) at coolant temperature sender G62.
  14. Disconnect electrical connector (4) at coolant temperature sender G62.
  15. Unscrew bolts (2, 5, 7)
  16. Free electrical lines and hoses on left charge air pipe.
  17. Loosen hose clip (3) and remove left charge air pipe.
  18. Remove bolts (arrows).
  19. Unclip engine pre-wiring harness from retainer (arrow).
  20. Disconnect connector (3) from intake manifold flap motor V157.
  21. Lay engine wiring to side.
  22. Remove noise insulation:
  23. Pull connectors off throttle valve module J338(2).
  24. Open clamp (3) and pull off charge air hose.
  25. Remove bolt from oil dipstick attachment (4).
  26. Take off pulsation damper (2).
  27. Carefully push charge air pipe to side as far as possible.
  28. ⚠ Ensure that decoupling element of connecting pipe is not bent and thus stretched. There is a danger of cracking. — Remove securing clamp (1) between particulate filter and turbocharger.
  29. Remove bolt (1).
  30. Remove nuts (2).
  31. Now you can access the securing bolt on the retaining clamp (arrow) for the oil return line on the turbocharger support. Remove bolt (arrow).
  32. Remove connecting pipes (A) to exhaust gas recirculation cooler.
  33. Remove oil supply line and turbocharger support .
  34. Drain coolant .
  35. Remove coolant hoses from connections, loosen hose clips (1) and (2) for this.
  36. Detach connector for Hall sender G40(1).
  37. Remove toothed belt from camshaft and high-pressure pump .
  38. Unthread engine wiring harness (arrows), if necessary disconnect connectors and lay engine wiring harness to side.
  39. Unscrew bolts (arrows) for coolant expansion tank.
  40. Disconnect electrical connector (1) for coolant shortage indicator switch F66.
  41. Remove toothed belt from camshaft and high-pressure pump .
  42. Unscrew securing nut of toothed belt tensioning roller.
  43. Detach camshaft pulley from hub.
  44. Remove camshaft hub and pull off camshaft hub using puller T10052.
  45. Counterhold hub with counterhold T10051 and loosen securing bolt (1) of hub.
  46. Loosen hub securing bolt about 2 turns.
  47. Fit puller T10052 and align it with holes in hub.
  48. Tighten securing bolts (1).
  49. Apply tension to hub by evenly tightening puller (2) until hub separates from taper of camshaft. [Note: When doing this, hold puller with 30 mm spanner.]
  50. Remove hub from taper of camshaft.
  51. Unscrew and remove securing bolt (arrow) of rear toothed belt guard.
  52. Maintain sequence when loosening cylinder head bolts. [Note: A second mechanic is required to remove the cylinder head.The toothed belt tensioning roller is pulled off the stud when the cylinder head is lifted out.]
  53. First lift cylinder head on gearbox side and guide it out of toothed belt guard. Make sure that toothed belt tensioner does not fall down. [Note: Always renew cylinder head bolts.In cases of repair, carefully remove gasket remains from cylinder head and cylinder block. Ensure that no long scores or scratches are made on the surfaces. When using abrasive paper do not use a grade less than 100.Carefully remove emery and abrasive remains.Do not remove new cylinder head gasket from packaging until it is ready to be fitted.Handle gasket very carefully. Damage to the silicone coating or the indented area will lead to leaks.Exercise extreme caution. Ask a second mechanic for assistance.Guide the cylinder head in the timing belt guard.When doing this, the cylinder head must not scrape over the dowel sleeves.]
  54. Before fitting cylinder head, remove crankshaft stop T10050 and turn crankshaft opposite direction of rotation until all pistons are nearly uniformly below TDC.
  55. Unscrew Hall sender G40(arrow).
Workshop diagrams + 19 more steps

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Who makes these pages, and how

TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

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Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.