TorqFix

Dismantling and assembling drive shaft, constant velocity joint VL107, threaded connection — VW

Dismantling and assembling drive shaft, constant velocity joint VL107, threaded connection on VW: 20 steps.

Stripping and rebuilding a drive shaft with the VL107 constant velocity joint on the threaded-connection type, here on the Polo 6C (6C1, 2014–2017). The shaft goes in a vice with soft jaws, the boot is folded back and the joint is drawn off with puller T10382 assembled on multi-purpose tool VW 771, smooth side of the puller plate towards the spindles. The retaining ring and clamps then come off and the boot is driven off with a drift. On assembly the joint is pressed on to the stop, a new cover is sealed with an unbroken 2 to 3 mm bead and driven home, and the stainless clamp is closed with tensioner V.A.G 1682. Two things decide it: deflector ring position and a free-running tensioner spindle.

20 steps

🧭 Before you start

Clamp the shaft, fold back the boot and pull the joint off with T10382 and VW 771. Remove the retaining ring, both clamps and the boot. Refit the boot, press the joint on to the stop, fit the retaining ring and seal on a new cover with a continuous sealant bead. Close the boot clamp with V.A.G 1682 tightened through a torque wrench to 25 Nm.

Fits: VW Polo 6C (2014–2017)

  • Special tools named: puller, torque wrench

Don't miss

  • Deflector ring must sit flush with the outer joint contact face; drive it on with T10049 if displaced.
  • Apply an unbroken sealant bead 2 to 3 mm across the cover, in the area of the inner holes.
  • The hard boot needs a stainless clamp, tensioned only with V.A.G 1682 to 25 Nm.
  • Make sure the tensioner spindle thread runs freely; a tight thread gives false torque and a loose clamp.
  • Do not cant the pliers while tightening the clamp.

Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.

📋 Procedure

  1. Clamp drive shaft in vice using protective jaw covers.
  2. Fold back boot.
  3. Set puller T10382 up so that smooth side of puller plate T10382/1 points to spindles T10382/2.
  4. Assemble puller T10382 complete with multi-purpose toolVW 771.
  5. Pull constant velocity joint from drive shaft with puller T10382 and multi-purpose toolVW 771.
VW? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. Knock onto shaft with plastic hammer until circlip engages. [Note: Deflector ring (1) must align with contact surface of outer joint (arrow).] [Note: If deflector ring (1) is not positioned correctly or if it fell off outer joint, it must be driven onto outer joint to stop using thrust piece T10049.]
  2. Remove retaining ring.
  3. Remove both clamps and slide boot towards outer joint.
  4. Drive off boot with drift.
  5. Press joint on to stop.
  6. Install retaining ring.
  7. Coat sealing surface of cover with D 454 300 A2.
  8. Apply an unbroken bead of sealant (2 … 3 mm in diameter) onto clean surface of cover in area of inner holes (arrow).
  9. Using bolts (arrows), align new cover in relation to bolt holes.
  10. Drive on cover using a plastic hammer.
  11. Wipe off surplus sealant.
  12. Insert lug (1) of clamp into guide (arrow).
  13. Compress clamp with pliers, e.g. locking pliers for Phaeton steering rackVAS 6199 until upper part (arrow 1) locks with guide (2).
  14. Position clamp tensionerV.A.G 1682 as shown in illustration. Ensure jaws of tensioner lie in corners (arrows B) of ear on O-type clip.
  15. Tighten clamp by turning spindle with a torque wrench (do not cant pliers). [Note: Due to the hard material of the protective boot (compared to rubber) and the necessity of using a stainless steel clamp, it is only possible to tension the clamp with clamp tensionerV.A.G 1682.Specified torque: 25 Nm.Use torque wrench (C) with adjustment range 5 … 50 Nm, (e.g. torque wrenchV.A.G 1331).Make sure thread of spindle (A) on pliers moves freely. Lubricate with Mo S2 grease if necessary.If the thread is tight (e.g. due to dirt), the required clamping force for the clamp will not be attained although the specified tightening torque is applied.]

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TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

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Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.