E90/E91/E92/E93; N55; GS6-45BZ gearbox — BMW
E90/E91/E92/E93; N55; GS6-45BZ gearbox on BMW: 71 steps, engines N55B30A. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
This covers taking out the GS6-45BZ manual gearbox on the BMW E90, E91, E92 and E93 335i and xi with the N55B30A engine. Access is all from underneath: heat shields, exhaust pipe brackets and the exhaust pipes at the manifold come off, then the propeller shaft is unbolted from the gearbox, its middle support released and the shaft lowered without damaging the rubber boot. The gear-shift rod is disconnected after pulling the locking pin, the wiring and reversing light switch are unplugged, and the engine is held on a hoist while the cross member comes out. Two things govern the refit: the magnesium crankcase needs aluminium bolts that are renewed every time, and the input shaft splines must be cleaned and greased.
🧭 Before you start
Support the engine on a hoist, remove heat shields and exhaust brackets, and disconnect the exhaust at the manifold and rear mounts. Release the propeller shaft middle support, unbolt the shaft from the gearbox and lower it out. Disconnect the gear-shift rod, wiring loom brackets and reversing light switch, support the gearbox with safety straps, remove the cross member and the engine-to-gearbox bolts, then lower the gearbox away. Refit in reverse with clean, greased input splines and new aluminium bolts, tightening in the stages given for steel and aluminium bolts.
Fits: platform codes 335I, XI
- Timing position: the crankshaft or camshaft is set and locked during this job
- Special tools named: locking pin
Don't miss
- Use aluminium bolts on the magnesium crankcase and renew them every time they are removed.
- Clean and grease the gearbox input shaft splines before installation.
- Safety straps must be used on the gearbox support during removal.
- Do not damage the propeller shaft rubber boot when lowering the shaft.
- Observe the separate tightening values for hexagonal and Torx bolts, steel and aluminium.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
🔧 Engine codes this applies to
📐 46 workshop diagrams for N55B30A
Real factory drawings for this job — timing marks, bolt locations and routing. Locked in the free view.
📋 Procedure
- Installation is in the reverse order of removal
- Aluminium screws/bolts must be used for a magnesium crankcase
- Aluminium screws/bolts must be renewed each time they are removed
- Aluminium screws/bolts, with or without colour coding (blue), may be used
- Fit a lifting jack
- Clean the gearbox input shaft splines
- Apply grease to the gearbox input shaft splines
- Disconnect the exhaust pipes from the manifold
- Disconnect the rear exhaust mounts
- Propeller shaft/differential
- Remove the heat shield(s)
- Propeller shaft middle support
- Disconnect the coolant hoses from the front of the engine
- Disconnect the wiring loom bracket
- Use a hoist to support the engine
- Remove the exhaust pipe bracket(s)
- Remove the engine/gearbox lower attaching bolts
- Disconnect the electrical wiring from the gearbox
- Unclip the wiring from the gearbox
- Disconnect the wiring loom bracket at the gearbox
- Disconnect the reversing light switch from the gearbox
- Exhaust pipe/gearbox support:
- Steel
- Aluminium
- Remove the exhaust pipe bracket(s)
- Support the gearbox
- Use a special tool:
- Caution! Safety straps MUST be used
- Remove the cross member
- Disconnect the propeller shaft from the gearbox
- Remove the propeller shaft middle support
- Disconnect the propeller bearing
- Lower the propeller shaft
- Do not damage the rubber boot
- Remove the propeller shaft
- Remove the locking pin
- Disconnect the gear-shift rod from the gearbox
- Disconnect the gear-shift rod from the gearbox
- Remove the gear-shift control at the gearbox
- Use a hoist to support the engine
- Remove the engine/gearbox attaching bolts
- Lower the gearbox slightly
- Remove the gearbox
Ask TorqFix about your BMW N55B30A — it answers with the exact sequence for that engine and the workshop drawing for each step. First question is free after a 20-second sign-up, no card.
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
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The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.