Servicing drive shaft with triple roller joint AAR 3300i (bolted flange / splines on inner joint) — AUDI
Servicing drive shaft with triple roller joint AAR 3300i (bolted flange / splines on inner joint) on Audi: 35 steps.
Servicing a drive shaft that has a triple roller (tripod) inner joint AAR 3300i with bolted flange or splines, on the platform codes listed below, plus stripping and repacking the outer constant-velocity joint. The inner joint body is pulled off after the boot clip is opened, the circlip removed and the spider pressed off the shaft in a press. The outer joint is knocked off with an aluminium hammer, marked, and taken apart ball by ball so it can be inspected. Everything is cleaned, a new boot and circlip go on, and the joints are refilled with the grease from the repair kit. What matters most is putting the outer joint back with hub, cage and balls in their original positions, and clamping the boot clips properly with V.A.G 1682.
🧭 Before you start
Open the boot clip, pull off the inner joint body, remove the circlip and press the spider off the shaft. Clean the parts, slide on the small clip, boot and joint body, press the spider back on and fit the circlip. Grease joint and boot from the repair kit and clamp the clips with V.A.G 1682. For the outer joint, mark hub, cage and body, remove the balls, inspect, reassemble in the original positions and repack.
Fits: Audi TT Mk1 (8N)
- Special tools named: V.A.G 1682, torque wrench
- Renewed: circlip in shaft
Don't miss
- Do not exceed 3.0 t when pressing the triple roller spider back onto the shaft.
- Inner joint: 70 g of grease in the joint, 60 g in the boot, from the repair kit.
- Mark outer joint hub, cage and body before dismantling; the 6 balls are one tolerance group.
- Vent the boot by lifting its lip before tightening the clip, and keep pliers V.A.G 1682 straight.
- Knocking under load change means renew the joint; polished areas alone do not.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
📋 Procedure
- Drive joint off drive shaft with a firm blow from an aluminium hammer.
- Before tightening the hose clips, vent the boot to equalise pressure by briefly lifting the lip.
- Apply pliers V.A.G 1682 as shown. Ensure that the jaws of the pliers seat in the ends of the hose clip (arrows B).
- Tighten hose clip by turning spindle (A) with torque wrench (take care to keep pliers straight). [Note: Make sure thread of spindle on pliers moves freely. Lubricate with Mo S2 grease if necessary.If the thread is stiff (e.g. due to dirt), the required clamping force will not be attained at the hose clip when applying the specified tightening torque.]
- Open hose clip on shaft and push back boot.
- Pull joint body off drive shaft.
- Remove circlip (use commercial-type pliers -1- or VW 161 A).
- Insert drive shaft in press.
- Press triple roller spider off drive shaft.
- Pull joint boot off shaft.
- Clean shaft, joint body and groove for seal.
- Push small hose clip for boot onto shaft.
- Push joint boot onto shaft.
- Push joint body onto shaft.
- Fit triple roller spider on shaft and press on as far as stop.
- Fit triple roller spider on shaft and press on as far as stop.
- Make sure pressure does not exceed 3.0 t!
- If necessary, coat splines of drive shaft and triple roller spider with polycarbamide grease G 052 142 A2.
- Install circlip (ensure proper seating).
- Slide joint body over rollers and hold in position.
- Press 70 g of drive shaft grease from repair kit into triple roller joint.
- Press 60 g of drive shaft grease from repair kit into boot.
- Install joint boot.
- Install hose clip.
- Before dismantling, mark position of ball hub in relation to ball cage and joint body with an electric scriber or oil stone (arrow).
- Swivel ball hub and ball cage and take out balls one after the other.
- Turn cage until two cage openings (arrow) are level with joint body.
- Lift out cage together with hub.
- Swivel one segment of the hub into one of the cage openings.
- Pivot hub out of cage. [Note: The 6 balls in each joint belong to one tolerance group. Check stub axle, hub, cage and balls for pitting and signs of seizure.Excessive backlash in the joint will cause knocking or jolts under load change; in such cases the joint must be renewed.Polished areas and ball track marks are not a reason for changing the joint.]
- Pack half the total quantity of grease into the joint body.
- Fit cage with hub into joint body. [Note: Cage must be inserted in correct position (i.e. sides facing in same direction as original position).]
- Press in the balls one after the other from opposite sides, taking care to re-establish the original position of the hub relative to the cage and the joint body.
- Fit new circlip in shaft.
- Distribute remaining grease in boot.
🎬 Related video tutorial
Independent AUTODOC tutorial for the same job, filmed on a different model (A4 B5 Saloon) — the technique carries over, the fasteners and figures on this page are the ones for your car.
How to change cv joint on AUDI A4 B5 Saloon
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.