Servicing drive shaft with triple roller joint — AUDI
Servicing drive shaft with triple roller joint on Audi: factory workshop procedure. Full factory text, tools and checks.
Workshop procedure for AUDI — the factory write-up, straight from real workshop data.
📋 Procedure
ℹ️ Torque figures below come verbatim from workshop data — always cross-check against your vehicle's factory manual before final tightening.
Note:
For vehicles with TDI and 6-cyl. engine as well as all models with automatic gearbox.
Grease fill of joints
Grease · Outer joint ø · Inner joint
88 mm · 98 mm · 130 mm
Total quantity · / 90 g 1) · / 120 g 2) · / 140 g 3)
In joint · 40 g · 80 g · 70 g
In boot · 50 g · 40 g · 70 g
1)
Grease G 000 603
2)
Grease G 000 633
3)
Grease G 000 605
Re-grease joint if necessary on replacing boot.
Hexagon collared bolt
Replace
M14: 115 Nm + further 1/2 turn (180°)
M16: 190 Nm + further 1/2 turn (180°)
Vehicle must be standing on its wheels when slackening off and tightening (danger of accident)
Boot
Rubber or Hytrel
=> Parts List
Check for cracks and abrasion
Before tensioning clamps, briefly lift rubber boot for pressure equalisation=> Fig.
40-34
Large clamp
Different versions; assignment
=> Parts List
Replace
Tensioning clamp for rubber boot
=> Fig.
40-34
Tensioning large stainless-steel clamp for Hytrel boot=>Fig.
40-35
Drive shaft
Small clamp
Different versions; assignment
=> Parts List
Replace
Tensioning for all versions => Fig.
40-35
Joint element
Multi-point socket-head bolt, 70 Nm
Triple roller star
Chamfer -arrow- faces drive shaft splines
Installation position => Page
40-39
Circlip
Replace
Insert in shaft groove
O-ring
Replace
Contained in repair set
Cover
Destroyed on removal
Repair set contains modified cover
Large clamp
Different versions; assignment
=> Parts List
Replace
Tensioning => Fig.
40-34
Boot for triple roller joint
Small clamp
Replace
Tensioning
=> Fig.
40-35
Dished washer
Installation position => Fig.
40-33
Spacer ring (plastic)
Installation position => Fig.
40-33
Circlip
Replace
Insert in annular shaft groove before assembly (not visible with joint fitted)
Outer constant velocity joint
Different versions; assignment
=> Parts List
Replace only as complete assembly
Pressing off =>Fig.
40-33
Installing:
Use plastic-headed hammer to drive joint onto shaft until circlip engages
Greasing => Table, Page
40-25
Special tools and workshop equipment required
VW416 B Tubular section
VW 412 Press tool
VW 426 Tubularsection
3110 Tubularsection
Kukko12/1 Puller
2050 Thrust pad
V.A.G 1275 Pliers
VW 161 A Circlip pliers
3207 Pressure spindle
Fig.1
Pressing off outer constant velocity joint
Clamp drive shaft with soft jaws in vice.
Detach large clamp and fold back boot.
Screw special tool into joint pin until constant velocity joint can be detached.
Fig.2
Installation position of spacer ring and dished washer (wheel end)
1 -
Dished washer
2 -
Spacer ring (plastic)
Fig.3
Venting rubber boot
Boot is often squashed on positioning it on housing. This produces a vacuum in the boot, which causes a fold to form whilst driving -arrow-.
Attention is therefore to be paid to the following:
Before tensioning clamps, lift boot to ensure pressure equalisation.
Fig.4
Tensioning large clamp for rubber boot
Fig.5
Tensioning large stainless-steel clamp for Hytrel boot
Apply pliers V. A.G 1682 as shown. Make sure jaws of pliers make contact with corners (arrows B) of hose clamp.
Tension hose clamp by turning spindle -A- with torque wrench (take care not to tilt pliers).
Notes:
Tightening torque: 20 Nm
Use torque wrench with 5...50 Nm adjustment range (e.g. V.A.G 1331).
Make sure thread of spindle on pliers moves freely. Lubricate with MoS2 grease if necessary.
If stiff, e.g. due to dirt on thread, required clamp tensioning force will not be attained with specified tightening torque.
Fig.6
Tensioning small clamp
Note:
This procedure applies to steel and stainless-steel clamps.
TorqFix answers live for your specific car — tell it the engine code and it serves the matching sequence, torque figures and wiring for that exact variant.
Ask about my car →🎬 Related video tutorial
Independent AUTODOC tutorial for the same job, filmed on a different model (A4 B5 Saloon) — the technique carries over, the fasteners and figures on this page are the ones for your car.
How to change cv joint on AUDI A4 B5 Saloon
Other AUDI procedures
- Removing and installing toothed belt – Audi · 56 torque figures
- Removing engine – Audi A8 D3 · 41 torque figures
- Removing camshaft timing chain from camshafts – Audi A6/A7 C7 · 38 torque figures
- Installing engine – Audi A8 D4 · 36 torque figures
- Removing and installing camshaft timing chain · 29 torque figures
Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.