Repairing clutch — AUDI
Repairing clutch on Audi: factory workshop procedure. Full factory text, tools and checks.
Workshop procedure for AUDI — the factory write-up, straight from real workshop data.
📋 Procedure
ℹ️ Torque figures below come verbatim from workshop data — always cross-check against your vehicle's factory manual before final tightening.
012
Special tools and workshop equipment required
3067 Counterhold
3176 Centring mandrel
V.A.G 1331 Torque wrench
Notes:
Observe the general repair instructions =>Page
00-20
.
If the clutch has burnt out, thoroughly clean the bell housing, flywheel and parts of the engine facing the gearbox in order to prevent odours.
Two different dual mass flywheel versions may be installed. Distinguishing features of the weight-optimised dual mass flywheel => Fig.
2
.
In order to prevent damage to the weight-optimised dual mass flywheel during removal, the removal instructions must be followed => Fig.
2
.
Replace clutch plates and pressure plates with damaged or loose rivets.
Pressure plates with kinked or broken spring connections must be replaced => Abb.
4
Replace clutch plates and pressure plates with damaged or loose rivets.
Select the correct clutch plate and pressure plate according to engine code:
=> Parts List
Clean input shaft splines and (in the case of used clutch plates) the hub splines. Remove corrosion and apply only a very thin coating of grease G 000 100 to the splines. Then move clutch plate to and for on input shaft until hub moves freely on shaft. Excess grease must be removed.
Pressure plates are protected against corrosion and greased. Only the contact surface may be cleaned, otherwise the service life of the clutch will be considerably reduced.
Tighten securing bolts in small stages and in diagonal sequence to avoid damaging centring holes in pressure plate and centring pins on flywheel.
Remove the gearbox to work on the clutch =>Page
34-34
.
Flywheel/dual mass flywheel
Ensure that centring pins are a tight fit.
Contact surface for clutch lining must be free of grooves, oil and grease
Observe the removal instructions for the weight-optimised dual mass flywheel =>Fig.
2
Removing and installing:
=> Relevant engine workshop manual, Mechanical components; Repair group 13
Bolt for flywheel
Always replace
Vehicles without dual mass flywheel 60 Nm + turn 90° further
With dual-mass flywheel
Screw length 22.5 mm
60 Nm and turn + 90° further
Screw length 43 mm
60 Nm and turn + 180° further
Detach clutch plate
Installation position:
Spring pack (coil springs) towards thrust and gearbox
Clutch lining must make full contact with flywheel
Marking "Getriebeseite" (if present) must face towards thrust plate and gearbox
Do not grease
Clutch plate diameter => from Page
00-3
Centring =>Fig.
1
Lightly grease splines
Thrust plate
Removing and installing =>Fig.
1
Check ends of diaphragm spring => Fig.
3
Checking spring connection and riveted fastenings => Fig.
4
Checking wire ring => Fig.
5
Bolt - 25 Nm
Loosen and tighten gradually in several stages working diagonally
Needle bearing
Check for damage and wear
Removing and installing:
=> Relevant engine workshop manual, Mechanical components; Repair group 13
Fig.1
Centring clutch plate and removing and installing thrust plate
Loosen and tighten bolts gradually in several stages working diagonally. Tightening torque: 25 Nm.
Reverse position of counterhold 3067 when removing.
Installation position of clutch plate: spring pack (coil springs) or marking "Getriebeseite" towards pressure plate and gearbox.
Clutch lining and contact surface of pressure plate must make full contact with flywheel before securing bolts are inserted.
Use mandrel 3176 to centre clutch plate.
Fig.2
Weight-optimised dual mass flywheel
Identification: cheese-head bolts -B- are countersunk in the flywheel -A-.
Removing
Note:
In order to prevent destroying the dual-mass flywheel during removal, the bolts -B- must not be removed using a pneumatic or impact driver. Only manual removal of the bolts -B- is permissible.
Turn flywheel -A- until the bolts -B- are positioned centrally with respect to the holes -arrows-.
When unscrewing bolts -B-, ensure that no bolt heads are in contact with the flywheel -arrows- to prevent damage as it turns.
Fig.3
Checking ends of the diaphragm spring
Wear up to half the thickness of the diaphragm spring is permitted.
Note:
When performing repairs always match up clutch pressure plate and clutch plate by checking engine code (see Parts List).
Fig.4
Checking spring connections and riveted fastenings
Check the spring connections -arrows A- for damage and the riveted fastenings -arrows B- for firm seating.
Note:
Pressure plates with severely kinked or broken spring connections or loose riveted fastenings must be replaced.
Fig.5
Checking wire ring
Check the wire ring in the pressure plate -arrow- for damage Replace pressure plates with broken wire rings.
TorqFix answers live for your specific car — tell it the engine code and it serves the matching sequence, torque figures and wiring for that exact variant.
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.