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Renewing gasket between bi-turbo turbine housings: Audi 2.0 TDI (CFCA, CKUB, CKUC, CSNA)

Step-by-step renewing gasket between bi-turbo turbine housings for the Audi 2.0 TDI: 12 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.

Workshop procedure for AUDI — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.

12 steps 4 engine codes engine codes merged from 3 documented variants

🧭 Before you start

Fits: VW Transporter T6 (7F), VW Transporter T6 (7E)

  • Renewed: seals, studs as required

Don't miss

  • When pulling the connecting pipes apart, ATE brake cylinder paste ETKA (electronic parts catalogue) can be used as a »lubricant«.

🔧 Engine codes this applies to

📐 31 workshop diagrams for CFCA

Real factory drawings for this job — timing marks, bolt locations and routing. Locked in the free view.

Renewing gasket between bi-turbo turbine housings — CFCA · diagram 1
Renewing gasket between bi-turbo turbine housings — CFCA · diagram 2
Renewing gasket between bi-turbo turbine housings — CFCA · diagram 3
Renewing gasket between bi-turbo turbine housings — CFCA · diagram 4
Renewing gasket between bi-turbo turbine housings — CFCA · diagram 5
Renewing gasket between bi-turbo turbine housings — CFCA · diagram 6
Renewing gasket between bi-turbo turbine housings — CFCA · diagram 7
Renewing gasket between bi-turbo turbine housings — CFCA · diagram 8
+ 23 more diagrams

📋 Procedure

  1. Carefully release locking plate (4) on regulating rod (2) of vacuum unit with regulating flap potentiometer G584 from the bolts with sealing paint (1) using a screwdriver or similar, and remove the locking plate.
  2. Loosen outer nut (5) on the regulating rod (2) and then unscrew the nut from regulating rod. Do not turn inner nut (3)! The regulating rod is now ready to be pulled out of the guide piece when the two output stages are pulled apart at a later stage.
  3. Remove bolt (1).
  4. Remove oil supply line (2).
  5. Unscrew bolts (1).
CFCA? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. Remove oil return line (2).
  2. Unscrew nuts (1) on flange between stages.
  3. Carefully pull apart both output stages (arrows). [Note: When pulling the connecting pipes apart, ATE brake cylinder paste electronic parts catalogue can be used as a »lubricant«.] [Note: Renew seals and self-locking nuts.Check thoroughly whether all sealing plugs have been removed.Clean sealing surfaces.Always screw in lines initially, and then tighten them to specified torque.When fitting the connecting pipes, ATE brake cylinder paste electronic parts catalogue can be used as a »lubricant«.Reapply sealing lack to all positions that were broken open for removal.When assembling turbochargers, it is essential that the correct repair set Electronic Parts Catalogue is used.Renew studs as required.] [Note: Use a commercially available stud extractor to remove studs from flange.Note the installation location of the studs.]
  4. ⚠ When pulling both output stages apart, ensure that no pressure is exerted on the linkage or the pressure actuator.When carrying the turbocharger, always hold it by the pipes and not by the actuator or the rods.Bent linkage will impair the function of the turbocharger. Loading/stressing the actuator can damage it. — First guide the regulating rod (2) into the guide piece again
  5. Guide onto studs on flange between stages and join output stages together.
  6. Tighten self-locking nuts (1), from repair kit electronic parts catalogue, to specified torque in prescribed sequence .
  7. Screw nut (5) back onto regulating rod (2), fit locking plate (4), and apply sealing paint (1). [Note: The actuator is tested after fitting the turbocharger. The procedure is described further down in the following chapter Removing and installing regulating flap potentiometer G584.]
Workshop diagrams

Ask TorqFix about your Audi CFCA — it answers with the exact sequence for that engine and the workshop drawing for each step. First question is free after a 20-second sign-up, no card.

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Who makes these pages, and how

TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com

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Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.