Removing gearbox on vehicles with 4-cylinder engine: Audi A4 Cabriolet B6/B7 / A4 B6/B7
Step-by-step removing gearbox on vehicles with 4-cylinder engine for the Audi A4 Cabriolet B6/B7 / A4 B6/B7: 65 steps, 2 torque figures.
Workshop procedure for AUDI — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.
🧭 Before you start
Fits: Audi A4 Cabriolet B6/B7 (8H), Audi A4 B6/B7 (8E)
Don't miss
- The flexible pipe connection (de-coupling element) on the front exhaust pipe must not be bent more than 10° – otherwise it can be damaged.
- On Audi Cabriolet vehicles the following additional steps are required in order to remove the three bottom engine/gearbox bolts:
- On Audi Cabriolet vehicles with TDI engine the stop for the torque reaction support must be unbolted from the engine.
- Starter cables do not have to be disconnected.
- The support elements(arrows A) and (arrows B) are shown in schematic form on the adjustment plate. The arrow on the adjustment plate points in the direction of travel.Adjustment plate can only be fitted in one correct position.
🔩 Torque settings
Values can differ between engine variants — check the code stamped on your block.
| Torque | Fastener / step |
|---|---|
| 20 Nm (15 lb-ft) | Secure support elements to left side of gearbox, as shown in illustration |
| 20 Nm (15 lb-ft) | Secure support elements to right side of gearbox, as shown in illustration |
ℹ️ Always cross-check the exact figure against your vehicle's factory manual before final tightening — a wrong torque can damage the engine. These values are extracted from workshop data and may not cover every variant or revision.
📋 Procedure
- ⚠ Follow steps required when disconnecting battery Electrical system27. — With ignition switched off, disconnect battery earth strap (arrow).
- Remove engine cover panel (arrows).
- Remove engine cover panel (arrows).
- Pull dipstick (1) out of guide tube.
- Unclip caps.
- Unscrew nuts (arrows) and detach engine cover.
- Remove insulation from beneath cover.
- Re-insert dipstick in guide tube.
- Unbolt coolant expansion tank (arrow).
- Unplug electrical connector for coolant shortage indicator switch F66 at coolant expansion tank (bottom) and move expansion tank (with coolant hoses (1 … 3) attached) clear to one side.
- If fitted, remove air cleaner cover (arrow).
- Remove bolts (arrows).
- Remove air ducts (1) and (2).
- Unplug electrical connector (2) at air mass meter G70.
- Move wiring harness clear at air cleaner housing (arrows).
- Detach air hose (3).
- Unscrew bolt (1) and take out air cleaner housing.
- Remove upper engine/gearbox securing bolts (arrows 1) and (arrows 2). Please note that retaining brackets for wires/lines and coolant pipe may be secured on bolts (arrows 2) (important for installation).
- Detach rubber seal from edges of wing mounting flanges.
- To avoid damaging edges of wing panels with support bracket10-222 A, insert wing compensation plates T40045 on both sides between the wing mounting flange and the body panel underneath.
- Set up support bracket10-222 A with adapters10-222/3 on wing mounting flanges.
- Engage spindles on engine lifting eyes as illustrated.
- Take up weight of engine using spindles.
- On vehicles fitted with auxiliary heater, remove bolts (arrows) securing exhaust pipe of auxiliary/ additional heater to noise insulation.
- Loosen bolts/quick-release fasteners (1) and (2) and remove front noise insulation (A).
- If fitted, loosen quick-release fasteners (3) and remove rear noise insulation (B).
- Detach bracket (arrow) for noise insulation.
- Unscrew bolts for front exhaust pipe bracket (arrows).
- Remove front exhaust pipe behind particulate filter 26.
- Remove noise insulation (1) in wheel housing (left and right).
- Remove heat shield (arrows) for drive shaft (right-side).
- Unbolt drive shafts (left and right) from gearbox flange shafts.
- If fitted, unscrew bolt (1) and nut (2) and remove bracket for front exhaust pipe. [Note: The flexible pipe connection (de-coupling element) on the front exhaust pipe must not be bent more than 10° – otherwise it can be damaged.]
- Separate the exhaust system at the clamp (arrow) and slide the clamp to rear.
- Tie front exhaust pipe to side.
- If fitted, unbolt heat shield for propshaft (arrows).
- Remove bolts (arrows) at gearbox/propshaft flange.
- Slide propshaft together towards rear final drive. The constant velocity joints can be moved axially.
- Tie propshaft to side. [Note: On Audi Cabriolet vehicles the following additional steps are required in order to remove the three bottom engine/gearbox bolts:]
- Unbolt torque reaction support (arrows). [Note: On Audi Cabriolet vehicles with TDI engine the stop for the torque reaction support must be unbolted from the engine.]
- Unscrew nuts (1) on left and right sides, and swivel anti-roll bar (2) downwards.
- Unscrew nuts (3) on engine mountings (left and right) until bottom of nut is flush with end of stud (arrow).
- Use support bracket10 - 222 A to lift engine just enough for nuts (3) to make contact with bottom surface of left and right console for engine mounting.
- Unscrew the three lower engine/gearbox securing bolts (arrow).
- Lower engine back down.
- Detach starter from engine/gearbox and secure if necessary Electrical system27. [Note: Starter cables do not have to be disconnected.]
- If not already provided, drill a hole of 10.2 mm ∅ (arrow) in the support elements of gearbox support3282.
- To remove manual gearbox 02X set up gearbox support3282 with adjustment plate3282/43 and place on engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A. [Note: The support elements(arrows A) and (arrows B) are shown in schematic form on the adjustment plate. The arrow on the adjustment plate points in the direction of travel.Adjustment plate can only be fitted in one correct position.]
- Align the adjustment plate parallel to the gearbox.
- Secure support elements to left side of gearbox, as shown in illustration. Tighten bolt (M10 x 20) (arrow on right side) to 20 Nm. — 20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
- Secure support elements to right side of gearbox, as shown in illustration. Tighten bolt (M10 x 20) (arrow on left side) to 20 Nm. — 20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
- First remove bolts (1) and then bolts (2).
- Unscrew nuts (arrows) and detach tunnel cross member.
- Lower gearbox slightly with engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A.
- Unplug electrical connector (arrow) for reversing light switch F4 and move electrical wire clear.
- Unscrew connecting rod (2) for selector rod.
- Unscrew push rod (1), using an 8 mm hexagon key when unscrewing bolt.
- Unscrew nut (arrow) and detach gearbox selector lever from selector shaft.
- Remove remaining engine/gearbox securing bolts (arrow A) and (arrow B).
- Press gearbox off dowel sleeves and lower carefully with engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A just far enough to gain access to the clutch slave cylinder. [Note: When lowering gearbox, ensure hydraulic line to clutch slave cylinder is not damaged.]
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.