Removing cylinder head — AUDI
Removing cylinder head on Audi: 100 steps, 1 torque figure, engines AFN, AVG, AXW, AZC. What to remove, what to tighten and to how many Nm, what to check.
Removing and refitting the cylinder head on the Audi A3 (8P, 2003–2012) with the toothed-belt petrol and diesel engines listed below. It is a long job: fuel lines and charcoal filter disconnected, belts off, engine supported on the bracket while the mounting and engine support come out, then the toothed belt, front exhaust joint, plenum panels, wipers, intake manifold, coils and head cover before the head bolts are slackened in sequence. What decides it is timing and fasteners. Set No. 1 cylinder to TDC with the marks aligned before the belt comes off, turn the engine only clockwise at the crankshaft, renew the head bolts and gaskets, and tighten in the stages and sequence given.
🧭 Before you start
Release fuel pressure, disconnect the fuel and charcoal lines, remove the poly V-belt and set the engine to TDC. Support the engine, remove the mounting and engine support, then the pulley, covers and toothed belt. Drain coolant, separate the front exhaust, strip the plenum, wipers, air cleaner, intake manifold, coils and head cover, and slacken the head bolts in sequence. Refit with crank and cam at TDC, a new gasket and new bolts, then rebuild, bleed the fuel system and fill oil and coolant.
Fits: Audi A3 (8P, 2003–2012)
- Timing position: the crankshaft or camshaft is set and locked during this job
- Special tools named: T40001/6, T40001/7, T10070, torque wrench
- Renewed: cylinder head bolts, oil seals
- Also covered elsewhere: Parts catalogue
Don't miss
- Turn the engine only clockwise, at the crankshaft central bolt.
- Align camshaft and crankshaft marks at TDC of No. 1 cylinder before removing the belt.
- Renew the cylinder head bolts and all gaskets, seals and angle-tightened nuts and bolts.
- Do not bend the flexible joint in the front exhaust pipe.
- Mark the poly V-belt and toothed belt running direction before removal.
- Reuse drained coolant only if the original head and block go back in.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
🔧 Engine codes this applies to
🔩 Torque settings
Values can differ between engine variants — check the code stamped on your block.
| Torque | Fastener / step |
|---|---|
| 20 Nm (15 lb-ft) | Attach bracket -as illustrated- to cylinder block using threaded hole near water pump |
ℹ️ Always cross-check the exact figure against your vehicle's factory manual before final tightening — a wrong torque can damage the engine. These values are extracted from workshop data and may not cover every variant or revision.
📐 34 workshop diagrams for AFN
Real factory drawings for this job — timing marks, bolt locations and routing. Locked in the free view.
📋 Procedure
- Obtain code on vehicles with coded radio / radio and navigation system (RNS).
- Lift off engine cover panel (arrows).
- Remove noise insulation (centre) - fasteners (1 ... 3).
- Remove noise insulation (right-side) - fasteners (1 ... 3).
- ⚠ The fuel system is pressurised. Wrap a cloth around the connection before opening the system. Then release pressure by carefully loosening the connection. — Mark fuel supply and return lines.
- Detach hose going to activated charcoal filter (1).
- Disconnect fuel supply line (2) by pulling release tab.
- Disconnect fuel return line (3) by pulling release tab.
- Disconnect vacuum line (1) going to activated charcoal filter by pressing release tab.
- Disconnect fuel supply line (2) by pulling release tab.
- Disconnect fuel return line (3) by pulling release tab.
- Lift out activated charcoal filter from retainer with pipes connected (arrow).
- Unbolt bracket (3) for ACF.
- Unfasten bolt at filler neck of washer fluid reservoir (2).
- Disconnect electrical wire for coolant shortage indicator switch at expansion tank (1).
- Unbolt coolant expansion tank and lay it aside with pipes connected. [Note: Before removing, mark direction of rotation of poly V-belt with chalk or felt-tip pen. If the belt runs in the opposite direction when it is refitted, this can cause breakage.]
- To slacken poly V-belt, turn tensioner in (direction of arrow).
- Lock tensioner in position with locking pin T10060A.
- Take off poly V-belt.
- Remove locking pin T10060A from tensioner for poly V-belt.
- Remove the bolts (arrows) and lift off toothed belt cover. [Note: Engage carefully in toothed belt cover (centre) when installing.] [Note: Turn over the engine at the central bolt on the crankshaft.]
- ⚠ The engine must only be turned at the crankshaft, in the direction of normal engine rotation (clockwise). — Rotate engine to TDC of No. 1 cylinder by turning central bolt of crankshaft sprocket in normal direction of rotation. Marking on camshaft sprocket and marking on crankshaft must be aligned to TDC of cylinder No. 1 (arrows).
- Position support bracket10 - 222 A on bolted flanges of wing panels. The spindles face forwards.
- Detach crankcase breather hose from oil filler neck.
- Attach hooks of spindles with shackles10 - 222 A /12 to the lifting eyes.
- Take up weight of engine evenly with both spindles (but do not raise engine).
- Remove bolts (1) and (2) and detach connecting bracket.
- Unscrew bolts (3 ... 6) and detach engine mounting.
- Unscrew bolts (arrows) and remove engine support. [Note: To slacken the bolts for the engine support, raise or lower the engine slightly as necessary via the spindles on engine support bracket10 - 222 A.]
- Unbolt crankshaft pulley. [Note: To loosen and tighten the crankshaft pulley, counterhold central bolt with a ring spanner.]
- Unbolt toothed belt covers (bottom and centre) (arrows).
- Mark rotation direction of toothed belt with chalk or felt-tip pen.
- Loosen nut on tensioning roller (arrow) several turns.
- Remove toothed belt.
- ⚠ Hot steam/hot coolant may escape when opening expansion tank. Cover cap with cloth and open carefully. — Open filler cap on coolant expansion tank
- Remove cover (1) over battery. To do so, press release tab (arrow).
- ⚠ Observe notes on procedure for disconnecting battery Electrical system; Repair group 27. — With ignition switched off, disconnect battery earth cable (arrow).
- Place drip tray for workshop hoistVAS 6208 beneath engine.
- Turn drain plug (arrow) on radiator anti-clockwise, if necessary fit drain hose to connection.
- Unplug electrical connector (1) from oil pressure sender.
- Also disconnect bottom coolant hose at coolant pipe (2), and drain off remaining coolant. [Note: To avoid damage, the flexible joints in the front exhaust pipe must not be bent more than 10°.]
- Remove securing nuts (arrows) on front exhaust pipe/exhaust manifold.
- Unbolt bracket for exhaust system (arrows).
- Loosen bolt (3).
- Unscrew bolts (1) and (2) securing exhaust manifold support (left and right).
- Remove exhaust manifold support (arrows).
- Use screwdriver to pry off cover caps on wiper arms and unscrew hexagon nuts.
- Pull wiper arms off wiper shafts and remove.
- Unclip washer jets (arrow).
- Push washer jets through assembly opening back into plenum chamber, leaving hoses connected.
- Pull off rubber seal (1) on plenum chamber cover.
- Detach plenum chamber cover (2).
- Detach engine wiring harness at rear plenum chamber panel.
- Remove plenum chamber intermediate plate (arrows).
- Remove electrical connector (1) for Lambda probe (before catalytic converter) from bracket and unplug.
- Remove electrical connector (2) for Lambda probe (before catalytic converter) from bracket and unplug.
- Detach coolant hose (1).
- Disconnect coolant hose (arrow).
- Disconnect coolant hoses (1) and (2) at expansion tank.
- Unplug electrical connector (1) for coolant shortage indicator switch at expansion tank.
Ask TorqFix about your Audi AFN — it answers with the exact sequence for that engine and the workshop drawing for each step. First question is free after a 20-second sign-up, no card.
Ask about your Audi AFN — free → or sign up free to see the drawingsOther AUDI procedures
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.