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Removing and installing propshaft, Audi Q3 (not Audi RS Q3) — AUDI

Removing and installing propshaft, Audi Q3 (not Audi RS Q3) on Audi: 26 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.

Taking the propshaft out of a quattro Audi Q3 (8U, 2011–2018; RS Q3 excluded) is a two-person job from underneath. Before the shaft is touched, the noise insulation, pendulum support bolts, rear section of exhaust, a cross piece and the tunnel heat shield all come off, and the engine/gearbox is pushed forward and wedged with a block of wood to win clearance. The shaft is bolted to the bevel box at the front and the rear final drive at the back through a flexible coupling, with a centre bearing in between. What decides the outcome is marking: use the factory paint dots or your own marks so the shaft goes back in the same relative position. The other is keeping the shaft straight and level so the flange seal and the centre bearing sleeve are not damaged.

26 steps

🧭 Before you start

Strip the underside, push the power unit forward on a wooden block and slacken the centre bearing bolts. Mark or confirm the coupling and flange positions, counterhold the final drive with T10172 while loosening the bolts, support the shaft and draw it off the centring pins with a helper. On refitting, align the marks, tighten the coupling bolts first, then centre the bearing in its slots before tightening it, and fit the pendulum support with new bolts.

Fits: Audi Q3 (8U, 2011–2018); platform code 84

Don't miss

  • Check for factory paint dots on coupling and flange; if none, mark both ends before loosening anything.
  • Pull the shaft off the centring pins horizontally; a damaged flange seal means a new propshaft.
  • Keep the shaft as straight as possible, including in storage, to protect the centre bearing sleeve.
  • Tighten coupling bolts before the centre bearing, then align the bearing so nothing is under stress.
  • Pendulum support goes back with new bolts.
  • A second mechanic is needed to lower and remove the shaft.

Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.

📋 Procedure

  1. Remove noise insulation (1)General body repairs, exterior66Noise insulation; Removing and installing noise insulation.
  2. Remove bolts (2) and (3) for pendulum support.
  3. Push engine/gearbox assembly forwards and secure with a suitable block of wood (A). [Note: (Item 1) can be disregarded.]
  4. Disconnect exhaust system at clamp (arrow) and remove rear section of exhaust system 26Exhaust pipes/silencers; Exploded view - silencers.
  5. Remove bolts (arrows) and detach cross piece (1).
AUDI? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. Remove heat shield for centre tunnel General body repairs, exterior66Strips / trim panels / extensions; Removing and installing heat shield for floor.
  2. Slacken bolts (arrows) for centre bearing 2 turns.
  3. Check whether there is a factory marking (paint dot) on the flexible coupling and on the flange for the propshaft on the rear final drive (arrows).
  4. If there is no marking, mark position of flexible coupling relative to flange for propshaft on rear final drive.
  5. Also mark position of propshaft in relation to bevel box flange.
  6. When loosening propshaft bolts, counterhold at rear final drive using counterhold tool T10172 and adapters T10172/5.
  7. Loosen front and rear propshaft bolts but do not remove them yet.
  8. Detach bolts (arrows) securing propshaft to rear final drive.
  9. Support propshaft with engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A.
  10. If fitted, remove bolts (arrows) and detach heat shield (1). [Note: A 2nd mechanic is required for the next steps when removing the propshaft.] [Note: If seal is damaged propshaft must be renewed.]
  11. ⚠ The seal (arrow) in the propshaft flange can be damaged.Pull off propshaft horizontally from centring pin. — First pull propshaft tube off centring pin on rear final drive, then pull carefully off centring pin on bevel box.
  12. ⚠ Risk of damage to protective sleeve in centre propshaft bearing.The propshaft should be kept as straight as possible during removal and installation and when it is stored. — Remove bolts (arrows) securing centre bearing and take out propshaft towards rear. [Note: Install all parts in the same relative positions, as marked before removal.]
  13. ⚠ The seal (arrow) in the propshaft flange can be damaged.Ensure propshaft is horizontal when pushing it onto centring pins. — Attach propshaft to rear final drive so that the markings (arrows) align.
  14. Fit bolts (arrows) for centre bearing, but do not tighten yet.
  15. Tighten bolts securing propshaft flexible coupling to bevel box and rear final drive.
  16. Align centre bearing within elongated holes so that neither propshaft nor centre bearing are under stress.
  17. Tighten bolts (arrows).
  18. Install heat shield for centre tunnel General body repairs, exterior66Strips / trim panels / extensions; Removing and installing heat shield for floor.
  19. Secure pendulum support with new bolts. Tightening torques 34Assembly mountings; Exploded view - assembly mountings
  20. Install rear section of exhaust system 26Exhaust pipes/silencers; Exploded view - silencers.
  21. Install cross piece and noise insulation General body repairs, exterior66Noise insulation; Exploded view - noise insulation.

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TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

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Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.