TorqFix

Removing and installing left-side intake manifold (bottom section) - vehicles from 10.2004 onwards — AUDI

Removing and installing left-side intake manifold (bottom section) - vehicles from 10.2004 onwards on Audi: 27 steps, engines ASB, BNG.

Workshop procedure for AUDI — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.

27 steps 2 engine codes

🧭 Before you start

Fits: Audi A8 D3 (4E, 2002–2010)

  • Opens: coolant
  • Renewed: gaskets

Don't miss

  • Block off intake ports in cylinder head with clean rags.
  • Fit banjo bolt for coolant bleeder line with a new seal and screw in 2 … 3 turns, before installing left-side intake manifold (bottom section).
  • Ensure that high-pressure pipes are not under tension.
  • The return lines can only be renewed together with the pressure retention valve as one unit.
  • If there is any air left in the fuel system, the engine may switch to the backup mode ('emergency running' mode) during the road test. Switch off the engine and erase the fault memory. Then continue the road test.

🔧 Engine codes this applies to

📋 Procedure

  1. ⚠ Observe rules for cleanliness when working on the injection system . — Remove intake manifold (top section) .
  2. Drain off coolant 19.
  3. Unscrew union nuts (arrows) and detach high-pressure pipes.
  4. Unscrew union nuts (1 ... 4) and detach high-pressure pipes.
  5. Remove mechanical exhaust gas recirculation valve 26.
ASB? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. Unscrew retaining pin (2) for engine cover panel at intake manifold (bottom section).
  2. Unclip exhaust gas recirculation cooler change-over valve N345(item 1) from bracket.
  3. Remove bracket for exhaust gas recirculation cooler change-over valve N345.
  4. Remove banjo bolt for coolant bleeder line using jointed wrench as illustrated.
  5. Unplug electrical connector (1) at intake manifold flap 2 motor V275.
  6. Remove bolts (arrows) and detach intake manifold (bottom section) with intake manifold flap motor 2V275.
  7. Move coolant bleeder line to one side and remove left-side intake manifold (bottom section). [Note: Block off intake ports in cylinder head with clean rags.] [Note: Renew gaskets and seals.]
  8. Fit banjo bolt for coolant bleeder line with a new seal and screw in 2 … 3 turns, before installing left-side intake manifold (bottom section).
  9. Install mechanical exhaust gas recirculation valve 26.
  10. Install intake manifold (top section) .
  11. Tighten union nuts on high-pressure pipes hand-tight initially.
  12. Ensure that high-pressure pipes are not under tension.
  13. To tighten union of high-pressure pipe at high-pressure pump, use torque wrenchV.A.G 1331 with socket insert AF 14, flared ring spannerV.A.G 1331/8.
  14. To tighten unions of high-pressure pipes at rail elements, use torque wrenchV.A.G 1331 with ratchetV.A.G 1331/1 and socket, 14 mm3150.
  15. To tighten unions of high-pressure pipes at rail elements, use torque wrenchV.A.G 1331 with open end spanner insert, AF 19V.A.G 1331/5.
  16. To tighten union of high-pressure pipe at high-pressure pump, use torque wrenchV.A.G 1331 with ratchetV.A.G 1331/1 and socket T40055, 17 mm.
  17. Fill cooling system 19.
  18. Check fuel system for leaks.
  19. Run engine at idling speed for several minutes and then switch off.
  20. Switch off ignition.
  21. Check the complete fuel system including all 6 return line connections for leaks. [Note: The return lines can only be renewed together with the pressure retention valve as one unit.]
  22. After completing the repair, road-test the vehicle over a distance of at least 20 km. Accelerate with full throttle at least once. Then inspect the high-pressure section of the fuel system again for leaks. [Note: If there is any air left in the fuel system, the engine may switch to the backup mode ('emergency running' mode) during the road test. Switch off the engine and erase the fault memory. Then continue the road test.]

Who makes these pages, and how

TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com

The story behind TorqFix →

Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.