Installing sump (bottom section) - engines with liquid gasket — AUDI
Installing sump (bottom section) - engines with liquid gasket on Audi: 10 steps, 2 torque figures, engines ACK, AFB, AGA, AGE.
On the engines listed below (platform code 4B) whose lower sump was sealed with liquid gasket, it must go back on with liquid gasket too. Old sealant is cleaned from both halves with a rotating plastic brush, and both faces must be free of oil and grease. The tube nozzle is cut at the front marking for a bead of approx. 3 mm, laid on the sump as shown and no wider, because excess squeezes into the sump and can block the oil intake strainer. You then have 5 minutes to fit the sump, run the bolts to 5 Nm diagonally and then to 10 Nm. Refit the coolant drain pipe with a new O-ring, the anti-roll bar, fill coolant and oil.
🧭 Before you start
Clean old sealant and degrease both sealing faces. Lay a bead no wider than 3 mm on the sump and fit it within 5 minutes, tightening bolts diagonally to 5 Nm then 10 Nm. Fit the coolant drain pipe with a new O-ring, refit the anti-roll bar, fill the cooling system and add engine oil.
Fits: Audi A6 C5 (4B)
- Opens: coolant
- Renewed: o-ring
Don't miss
- If it had liquid gasket before, it must have liquid gasket again.
- Keep the bead at 3 mm maximum; excess sealant can clog the oil pick-up strainer.
- Fit the sump within 5 minutes of applying sealant.
- Tighten in diagonal sequence: 5 Nm first, then 10 Nm.
- Wear safety goggles when cleaning with the rotating brush.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
🔧 Engine codes this applies to
🔩 Torque settings
Values can differ between engine variants — check the code stamped on your block.
| Torque | Fastener / step |
|---|---|
| 10 Nm (7.4 lb-ft) | Tighten bolts securing sump (bottom section) |
| 5 Nm (3.7 lb-ft) | Fit sump (bottom section) and tighten all bolts initially |
ℹ️ Always cross-check the exact figure against your vehicle's factory manual before final tightening — a wrong torque can damage the engine. These values are extracted from workshop data and may not cover every variant or revision.
📋 Procedure
- ⚠ It is essential to use a liquid gasket again if sump (bottom section) was previously fitted with such a gasket. — Remove remaining sealant on bottom and top section of sump with a rotating plastic brush or similar.
- ⚠ Wear safety goggles. — Clean sealing surfaces; they must be free of oil and grease. [Note: The sump (bottom section) must be installed within 5 minutes after applying the silicone sealant.]
- Cut off nozzle of tube at front marking (∅ of nozzle approx. 3 mm).
- Apply the bead of silicone sealant onto the clean sealing surface of the sump (bottom section), as illustrated. [Note: Sealant bead must not be wider than 3 mm, otherwise excess sealant could ingress into sump and clog strainer in oil intake pipe.]
- Fit sump (bottom section) and tighten all bolts initially to 5 Nm in diagonal sequence. — 5 Nm (3.7 lb-ft)
- Tighten bolts securing sump (bottom section) to 10 Nm in diagonal sequence. — 10 Nm (7.4 lb-ft)
- Fit new O-ring and locate coolant drain pipe carefully on cylinder block and press it as far as it will go into drilling using a lever.
- Install anti-roll bar Running gear, front-wheel drive and four-wheel drive40.
- Fill cooling system .
- Fill up with engine oil and check oil level .
Other AUDI procedures
- Dismantling fuel delivery unit - 4 and 6-cyl. engine (code letters AAH, ABC, ABK, ACK, ACZ, ADA, ADR, ADW, AEJ)
- Dismantling fuel delivery unit - 4, 5, 6 and 8-cyl. engine (code letters AAH, AAN, ABC, ABH, ABY, ACK, ACZ, ADR, AEC, AEJ)
- Adjusting throttle cable - 8-cyl. engine (code letters ABH, AEC)
- Testing fuel pump (electrical test) from approx. 11.98
- Testing fuel pump -G6 (pre-supply pump) (electrical test)
- Removing and installing toothed belt · 56 torque figures
- Removing engine · 41 torque figures
- Removing camshaft timing chain from camshafts · 38 torque figures
- Installing engine · 36 torque figures
- Removing and installing camshaft timing chain · 29 torque figures
Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.