Dismantling and assembling low range gearing - assembly sequence — AUDI
Dismantling and assembling low range gearing - assembly sequence on Audi: 40 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
Workshop procedure for AUDI — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.
🧭 Before you start
Fits: Audi A6 C5 (4B)
- Timing position: the crankshaft or camshaft is set and locked during this job
- Special tools named: locking pin, puller
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- Risk of breaking vibration damper. The hooks of the two-arm puller must not be applied to the vibration damper when pressing out the flange shaft. — Apply hooks of two-arm puller (A) to cover for low range gearing.
- After the annulus/centre differential has been pressed out, the bearing will either be in the housing for the low range gearing or it may remain on the annulus/centre differential .
- Clean synchro-ring. The friction surface must be free of oil.
- The synchro-ring must be renewed if very shiny spots (A) have formed on the friction surface or if the brass-coloured metal underneath is already visible.
📋 Procedure
- Remove bolts (A) and bolt (B) on hydraulic actuator.
- Unscrew locking bolt (A) and take off cover for low range gearing together with hydraulic actuator and flange shaft (B).
- Clamp shaft of hydraulic actuator in vice using protective jaw covers (A).
- Drive locking pin out of selector fork using punch (B).
- Detach selector fork (1) with locking collar (2).
- Take off synchro-ring (3).
- Unscrew both bolts (arrows) and take off hydraulic actuator (1).
- Lever out oil seal (arrow) using a screwdriver.
- Lightly oil outer circumference of oil seal.
- Drive in oil seal (arrow) onto stop using drift T10326.
- Pack space between sealing lip and dust lip half-full with grease G 052 128 A1.
- Remove needle bearing (1) and circlip (2) from flange shaft.
- ⚠ Risk of breaking vibration damper. The hooks of the two-arm puller must not be applied to the vibration damper when pressing out the flange shaft. — Apply hooks of two-arm puller (A) to cover for low range gearing.
- Press out flange shaft (3).
- Clamp clutch unit "„II“" in vice with aluminium jaw covers (A).
- Pry out oil seal with lever (B).
- Lightly oil outer circumference of oil seal.
- Drive in oil seal onto stop.
- Pack space between sealing lip and dust lip half-full with grease G 052 128 A1.
- Clamp clutch unit "„II“" in vice with aluminium jaw covers.
- Unscrew bolts (A) remove cover from clutch unit "„II“".
- Secure clutch unit "„II“" hand-tight to cover for low range gearing with bolts (A).
- Clamp clutch unit "„II“" in vice with aluminium jaw covers.
- Tighten bolts (A). Tightening torque
- Unscrew bolt (A) (transport lock) and press out centre differential. [Note: After the annulus/centre differential has been pressed out, the bearing will either be in the housing for the low range gearing or it may remain on the annulus/centre differential .] [Note: After the annulus/centre differential has been pressed out, the bearing will either be in the housing for the low range gearing or it may remain on the annulus/centre differential .]
- ⚠ The annulus/centre differential must not make contact with the thrust plates while being pressed out.The annulus/centre differential must be held or supported from below while pressing out. — Press ball bearing (1) into housing for low range gearing (2) as far as stop, taking care to keep bearing straight.
- Press in centre differential as far as stop, taking care to keep it straight.
- Screw in bolt (A) (transport lock).
- Lever off washer (1) with two screwdrivers.
- Remove circlip (2).
- Pull off synchro-hub (3).
- Take off synchro-ring (4).
- Press synchro-ring (1) down in direction of (arrow).
- Insert hooks of puller in slots (arrows B) and pull off synchro-hub (2).
- Fit synchro-spring and synchro-ring (4).
- Heat synchro-hub (3) to approx. 100 °C and fit.
- Fit circlip (2).
- Fit washer (1) as far as stop.
- Clean synchro-ring. The friction surface must be free of oil.
- The synchro-ring must be renewed if very shiny spots (A) have formed on the friction surface or if the brass-coloured metal underneath is already visible.
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.