Removing and installing oil sump — VW
Removing and installing oil sump on VW: 34 steps, 23 torque figures, engines AFK, AHW, AJH, AKQ. What to remove, what to tighten and to how many Nm, what.
Workshop procedure for VW — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.
🧭 Before you start
Fits: VW Passat B5 (3B)
- Opens: engine oil
Don't miss
- Observe environmental regulations for disposal.
- Mark the fitting position of threaded connections (1) and locating sleeves (2) below on the left and right engine mounts.
- To avoid having to perform wheel alignment, the subframe must only be loosened or lowered at the front end.
- Observe expiry date of sealing compound.The oil sump must be installed within 5 minutes of applying silicone sealing compound.
- Cut off tube nozzle at forward marking (∅ of nozzle approx. 3 mm).
🔧 Engine codes this applies to
🔩 Torque settings
Values can differ between engine variants — check the code stamped on your block.
| Torque | Fastener / step |
|---|---|
| 10 Nm (7.4 lb-ft) | Tighten bolts securing sump/oil return line |
| 10 Nm (7.4 lb-ft) | Tighten bracket for secondary air pump motor |
| 11 Nm (8.1 lb-ft) | Tighten oil sump bolts |
| 11 Nm (8.1 lb-ft) | Tighten sump bolts |
| 12 Nm (8.9 lb-ft) | Then tighten oil sump bolts |
| 12 Nm (8.9 lb-ft) | Tighten bolts securing sump (1) to cylinder block in diagonal sequence |
| 12 Nm (8.9 lb-ft) | Tighten oil sump bolts |
| 13 Nm (9.6 lb-ft) | Tighten oil sump bolts |
| 13 Nm (9.6 lb-ft) | Tighten sump bolts |
| 15 Nm (11 lb-ft) | Tighten oil sump bolts |
| 15 Nm (11 lb-ft) | Tighten sump bolts diagonally |
| 20 Nm (15 lb-ft) | Tighten bolts for sump/charge air pipe bracket (arrows) |
| 20 Nm (15 lb-ft) | Tighten bolts securing sump/air pipe bracket |
| 40 Nm (30 lb-ft) | Tighten bolts securing sump to gearbox |
| 40 Nm (30 lb-ft) | Tighten cover plate securing bolts on gearbox |
| 40 Nm (30 lb-ft) | Tighten sump securing bolts on gearbox |
| 45 Nm (33 lb-ft) | Tighten bolts securing sump to gearbox |
| 45 Nm (33 lb-ft) | Tighten bolts securing sump to gearbox (arrows) |
| 45 Nm (33 lb-ft) | Tighten M10 bolts of sump/intermediate plate |
| 5 Nm (3.7 lb-ft) | Tighten bolts securing sump (1) to cylinder block in diagonal sequence to initially |
| 8 Nm (5.9 lb-ft) | Tighten new sump securing bolts |
| 9 Nm (6.6 lb-ft) | Tighten oil sump bolts |
| 9 Nm (6.6 lb-ft) | Tighten sump bolts |
ℹ️ Always cross-check the exact figure against your vehicle's factory manual before final tightening — a wrong torque can damage the engine. These values are extracted from workshop data and may not cover every variant or revision.
📐 21 workshop diagrams for AFK
Real factory drawings for this job — timing marks, bolt locations and routing. Locked in the free view.
📋 Procedure
- Bring lock carrier into service position General body repairs, exterior50Lock carrier - service position.
- Drain engine oil. [Note: Observe environmental regulations for disposal.]
- Pull 3-pin connector off oil level and oil temperature sender G266.
- Unbolt retainers for ATF lines on torque reaction support and sump.
- Unbolt torque reaction support from sump.
- Unclip lower part (1) of starter cable retainer (arrows).
- Mark the fitting position of threaded connections (1) and locating sleeves (2) below on the left and right engine mounts.
- Unbolt both engine mountings from below.
- Attach support bracket 10-222A as shown.
- Support engine at rear lifting eye with support bracket.
- Tension engine slightly with spindle of support bracket.
- Support assembly carrier with workshop crane 1202 A. [Note: To avoid having to perform wheel alignment, the subframe must only be loosened or lowered at the front end.]
- First remove front bolts (2) and (3) on left and right-hand sides of subframe Then remove bolts (4).
- Loosen rear right gearbox mounting rear bolt (2) several turns, remove right gearbox mounting front bolt (1).
- Loosen left gearbox mounting nut (arrow) until it is flush with end of bolt (turned approx. 4 threads).
- Loosen rear left gearbox mounting rear bolt (2) several turns, remove left gearbox mounting front bolt (1).
- Lower subframe slowly with workshop crane.
- Remove workshop crane, swivel anti-roll bar down.
- Unbolt sump. If necessary, push assembly carrier downwards by hand slightly to be ease the loosening of the bolts on the intermediate plate.
- Now remove sump.
- Loosen sump with light blows of a rubber headed hammer if necessary.
- Remove sealant residue from cylinder block with a flat scraper.
- Remove sealant residue on sump using a rotating brush, e.g. an electric drill with a plastic brush attachment (wear safety goggles).
- Clean sealing surfaces. They must be free of oil and grease. [Note: Observe expiry date of sealing compound.The oil sump must be installed within 5 minutes of applying silicone sealing compound.]
- Cut off tube nozzle at forward marking (∅ of nozzle approx. 3 mm).
- Apply silicone sealing compound, as shown, to clean sealing surface on sump. Sealing compound bead must be: [Note: The sealant bead must not be thicker, otherwise excess sealing compound will enter the oil sump and may block the oil suction line strainer.]
- Apply silicone sealing compound bead as shown to the clean sealing surface of the sump.
- Install sump immediately and tighten all sump bolts lightly.
- Tighten sump bolts slightly.
- Tighten M10 bolts of sump/intermediate plate by hand.
- Tighten oil sump bolts to 12 Nm. — 12 Nm (8.9 lb-ft)
- Tighten M10 bolts of sump/intermediate plate to 45 Nm. [Note: Let sealing compound dry for approx. 30 minutes after installing sump. Only then fill with engine oil.] — 45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
- Install subframe Running gear, front-wheel drive and four-wheel drive40Removing and installing subframe.
- Install lock carrier with attachments General body repairs, exterior50Lock carrier service position.
Ask TorqFix about your VW AFK — it answers with the exact sequence for that engine and the workshop drawing for each step. First question is free after a 20-second sign-up, no card.
Ask about your VW AFK — free → or sign up free to see the drawingsOther VW procedures
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.