Removing and installing intake manifold lower part with fuel rail — VW
Removing and installing intake manifold lower part with fuel rail on VW: 21 steps, 1 torque figure, engines AXZ, BHK, BHL, BLV.
Removing the lower intake manifold with the fuel rail on the six-cylinder petrol engines listed below, on platform codes 357 and 1F7. With the battery disconnected and fuel pressure released, the noise insulation comes off and the lock carrier goes into its service position. The upper intake manifold and high-pressure pump are removed, then the fuel rail connecting pipe, the manifold bolts, the dipstick tube bolt and bracket. The rail is unbolted and pulled evenly off the injectors, and the manifold lifted away. Seal the intake ports with a clean cloth. On refitting, the injector O-rings and spring elements are renewed, the rail pressed evenly onto the injectors, and the rail bolts tightened evenly from the inside out before the manifold bolts.
🧭 Before you start
Disconnect the battery, release fuel pressure, remove noise insulation and set the lock carrier to service. Remove the upper manifold, pump and rail connecting pipe, unbolt the lower manifold and rail and pull the rail off the injectors. Refit with a new manifold seal, O-rings and spring elements, tighten rail bolts from inside out, then refit the connecting pipe and upper parts.
Fits: VW Passat CC (357, 2008–2012); platform code 1F7
- Renewed: o-rings between injector
Don't miss
- Renew injector O-rings, moistened with clean engine oil, and all injector spring elements.
- Tighten the fuel rail bolts evenly from inside to outside, then the manifold bolts.
- Hand-tighten the connecting pipe union nuts first, then torque them.
- If an injector came out, renew its combustion chamber seal.
- Cover the intake ports with a clean cloth while the manifold is off.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
🔩 Torque settings
Values can differ between engine variants — check the code stamped on your block.
| Torque | Fastener / step |
|---|---|
| 1 Nm (0.7 lb-ft) | Tighten bolt (arrow) |
ℹ️ Always cross-check the exact figure against your vehicle's factory manual before final tightening — a wrong torque can damage the engine. These values are extracted from workshop data and may not cover every variant or revision.
📋 Procedure
- ⚠ Observe safety precautions when releasing fuel pressure in high-pressure section — Disconnect earth strap at battery with ignition switched off Electrical system27Disconnecting and reconnecting battery.
- Remove noise insulation General body repairs, exterior50Noise insulation
- Move lock carrier into its service position General body repairs, exterior50Lock carrier, service position.
- Remove upper part of intake manifold .
- Remove high-pressure pump .
- Remove connecting pipe of fuel rail (arrows).
- Unscrew securing bolts for intake manifold lower part/cylinder head (arrows).
- Unscrew securing bolt from oil dipstick guide tube (1).
- Remove bracket (2) from lower part of intake manifold.
- Remove bolt (3).
- Unbolt fuel rail for cylinders 2, 4 and 6 (arrows).
- Carefully pull fuel rail off injectors.
- Remove intake manifold lower part. [Note: If an injector was removed from the cylinder head, the combustion chamber seal must be renewed .Seal intake ports in cylinder head with a clean cloth.]
- Renew O-rings between injector and fuel rail and moisten slightly with clean engine oil.
- Renew spring elements at all injectors (arrow).
- Position intake manifold lower part with new seal.
- Set fuel rail and evenly press onto injectors.
- Position all intake manifold and fuel rail securing bolts by hand. [Note: Tighten fuel rail securing bolts on cylinder head evenly from inside to outside.Then tighten securing bolts for intake manifold lower part/cylinder head.]
- Install connecting pipe of fuel rail (arrows). [Note: First tighten union nuts for connection pipe hand tight, then tighten to specified torque.]
- Install high-pressure pump .
- Install upper part of intake manifold .
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.