TorqFix

Removing and installing fuel pump 2V277, fuel gauge sender and suction-jet pump on left side — VW

Removing and installing fuel pump 2V277, fuel gauge sender and suction-jet pump on left side on VW: 13 steps, engines AJS, BMK, CARA, CEXA.

Workshop procedure for VW — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.

13 steps 5 engine codes

🧭 Before you start

Fits: VW Phaeton (3D)

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  • The fuel pump housing is filled with fuel. Fuel may run out if housing is tipped or canted.
  • Now, only two fuel lines (supply and return ) can be seen through the hole for right sender. These can only be removed via the supply and return flange with fuel tank removed.

🔧 Engine codes this applies to

📋 Procedure

  1. Observe safety precautions .
  2. Release and pull off 3 connectors (arrows) below left sender flange.
  3. On left-hand side (A), unclip fuel gauge sender (plunger-type) (3) from fuel pump (1)(arrows) and carefully pull it out.
  4. On left-hand side (A), unclip return hose of right suction-jet pump (2) from fuel pump (1).
  5. Release and pull off 3 connectors (arrows) below right sender flange.
AJS? Steps differ between engine variants — check this job against your exact car before you commit to it. Check my car — free →
  1. On right-hand side, pull off return line (3) and supply line (4).
  2. Pull out both hose ends through hole for left sender.
  3. Push both retaining clips (1) of left fuel pump (A) slightly to one side.
  4. Carefully remove fuel delivery unit with sender flange connected. [Note: The fuel pump housing is filled with fuel. Fuel may run out if housing is tipped or canted.]
  5. On right-hand side (B), unclip black return hose (2) from fuel pump housing (1)(arrows).
  6. Pull out black filler hose of suction-jet pump through hole for left sender.
  7. On left-hand side (A), unclip suction-jet pump (3) and remove it by turning slightly.
  8. Unclip and pull out fuel gauge sender (2). [Note: Now, only two fuel lines (supply and return ) can be seen through the hole for right sender. These can only be removed via the supply and return flange with fuel tank removed.]

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TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.

The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.

Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.

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Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.