Timing chain replacement: BMW M51
Step-by-step timing chain replacement for the BMW M51: 242 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
Workshop procedure for BMW — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.
🧭 Before you start
Fits: platform codes 525TD, |, 525TDS
- Opens: coolant
- Timing position: the crankshaft or camshaft is set and locked during this job
- Special tools named: locking pin, locking tool, dial gauge
Don't miss
- Ensure the valves make no contact with the pistons
📋 Procedure
Preparation and removal
- Before disconnecting the battery cable, check the audio system security code
- Stage 1:
- Hold the injection pump in this position
- Disconnect the tie rods
- Disconnect the power steering hose
- Disconnect the power steering line
- Remove the steering column universal joint
- Remove the engine cover
- Remove the locking pin from the chain tensioner
- Fit the tool as shown
- Slowly lift the engine
- Place the jack under the front axle subframe
- Remove the anti-roll bar
- Disconnect the lower arm ball joints
- Check the dowel pin(s) for damage
- Turn the crankshaft to 30° BTDC for cylinder 1
- Note: Ensure the valves make no contact with the pistons
- Disconnect the suspension lower wishbones from the wheel bearing housings
- Remove the heat shield(s)
- Disconnect the steering box from the front subframe
- Remove the front axle body bolts
- Turn the crankshaft to TDC for cylinder 1
- Fit the crankshaft locking tool
- Remove the fan and coupling
- Remove the injection lines
- Drain the coolant
- Disconnect the coolant hoses from the cylinder head
- Remove the tensioner bracket
- Remove the cylinder head cover
- Remove the vacuum pump
- Remove the tensioner locking bolt
- Remove the timing chain guide bolts from the cylinder head
- Remove the fuel return hoses from the injectors
- Remove the cylinder head
- Remove the coolant pump pulley
- Fit the crankshaft locking tool
- Remove the oil filter cartridge
- Disconnect the oil lines from the engine block
- Disconnect the power steering fluid reservoir
- Remove the coolant expansion tank and place it aside
- Remove the ancillary drive belt tensioner
- If necessary
- Remove the bearing pin from the timing cover
- Use the special tool
- Remove the crankshaft front radial seal
- Remove the lower timing cover
- Lock the chain tensioner with a locking pin
- Lift the engine slightly
- Set the injection pump timing
- Remove the lower engine cover
- Remove the drain plug
- Fit a dial gauge
- Use the special tool
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise
- Turn the crankshaft to TDC until the micrometer indicates the lowest point
- Set the dial gauge to zero
- Remove the oil filler cap
- Note: The cams for cylinder 1 should point straight up
- Remove the access plug
- Turn the crankshaft until the locking pin fits
- Read the dial gauge value
- Loosen the injection pump bolt slightly
Installation and checks
- Fit the timing chains
- Stage 4:
- Injection pump gearwheel:
- Tighten the injection pump gearwheel
- Crankshaft front radial seal fitting tool:
- Refit the crankshaft front radial seal
- Renew the bolt(s)
- Measure the distance:
- Reconnect the fuel return line
- Set the camshaft position
- Fit the camshaft locking tool
- Fit the camshaft gearwheel
- Fit the special tool
- Apply pressure to the tensioner
- Tighten the camshaft gearwheel bolt
- Refit the ancillary drive belt tensioner
- Refit the alternator bracket
- Refit the alternator
- Refit the coolant expansion tank
- Refit the EGR valve
- Reconnect the air pressure sensor
- Refit the oil filter cartridge
- Fit the coolant pump
- Renew the O-ring
- Refit the crankshaft hub
- Apply pressure to the tensioner
- Stage 1:
- Stage 2:
- Fit the crankshaft pulley
- Refit the vacuum pump
- In the reverse order to that shown
- Fit the alternator drive belt
- Refit the EGR hose
- Reconnect the glow plugs
- Reconnect the coolant hoses
- Remove the crankshaft locking tool
- Refit the inlet manifold
- Refit the dipstick tube
- Refit the oil level plug
- Fit the oil lines
- Refit the subframe
- Fit the subframe bolts
- Use the special tools
- Refit the lower suspension arms
- Check the marks
- Remove the jack
- Reconnect the power steering lines to the engine mount
- Remove the engine support tool
- Refit the air filter housing
- Refit the engine cover
- Refit the steering column universal joint
- Reconnect the lines
- Refit the tie rod end nut
- Refit the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position
- Refit the front wheels
- Remove the crankshaft locking tool
- Refit the lower splash guard
- Refill the power steering system
- Refill the cooling system
- Refill the engine oil
- Turn the injection pump until the dial gauge indicates the correct value
- Tighten the injection pump bolts
- Refit the engine lower cover
- Reconnect the battery earth cable
Other BMW procedures
- E 36 cylinder head removal M44
- E 36 cylinder head removal M41
- E 36, 34, 39, 38 cylinder head removal M51
- E36 cylinder head M52
- BMW E90, E60 M57T2 3.0 diesel timing chain replacement
- E36 M50/52 gearbox removal S5D 200G en 250G
- E60/61 M5 SMG clutch
- E36 M40 gearbox removal S5D 200G en 250G
- BMW E60, 93 N47, N57 drive auxiliary belt replacement
- E46/E39 - M47 belt
Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.