Removing gearbox - vehicles with V6 engine: Audi A3
Step-by-step removing gearbox - vehicles with V6 engine for the Audi A3: 69 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
Workshop procedure for AUDI — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.
🧭 Before you start
Fits: Audi A3 (8P, 2003–2012)
- Opens: brake fluid
- Special tools named: 3094
Don't miss
- Connector (2) and wire (3) remain in position on starter.
- (Arrow) can be disregarded.
- (Item 2) can be disregarded.
- Do not operate clutch pedal after disconnecting pressure line from slave cylinder. — Unscrew top engine/gearbox securing bolts (arrows).
- Take up weight of engine evenly with both spindles; do not lift.
📋 Procedure
- ⚠ When disconnecting the battery there is a risk of serious damage to electronic components:Observe the correct procedure for disconnecting the battery. — With ignition switched off, disconnect battery earth wire (arrow)Electrical system27.
- Remove engine cover panel.
- Remove air cleaner housing completely 24.
- Detach line (1) from air cleaner bracket (2).
- Remove bolts (arrows) and remove air cleaner bracket.
- Detach securing clips (1) and (2) on both cables.
- Detach cable end-pieces with selector cables from gearbox selector lever and gate relay lever.
- Pull locking mechanism forwards in direction of (arrow 1) onto stop and then turn to left in direction of (arrow 2) to lock.
- Then press gate relay lever forwards (in direction of (arrow 3)).
- Detach cable support bracket from gearbox (arrows); then move to one side and tie up together with selector cables.
- Unscrew earth wire (1) from upper starter bolt. [Note: Connector (2) and wire (3) remain in position on starter.]
- If a plastic pipe is installed between clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, clamp off supply hose to clutch master cylinder using hose clamp up to 25 mm3094.
- If a pipe/hose assembly is installed between clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, clamp off hose (A) using hose clamp 3094. [Note: (Arrow) can be disregarded.] [Note: In the following steps make sure that no brake fluid escapes onto the starter or onto the gearbox below. If this does happen, clean the affected area thoroughly.Place a cloth underneath to catch escaping brake fluid.]
- Release clip (3) with a screwdriver and disconnect pipe/hose assembly (1) or plastic pipe from connection (4).
- Detach pipe/hose assembly from bracket and move clear to the side. [Note: (Item 2) can be disregarded.]
- ⚠ Do not operate clutch pedal after disconnecting pressure line from slave cylinder. — Unscrew top engine/gearbox securing bolts (arrows).
- Then remove upper securing bolt from starter.
- Lever clip off sealing element using removal lever80 - 200 and fold up sealing element.
- Fit support bracket10-222A together with racks10 - 222 A /1 and adapters10-222A/3 onto wing mounting flanges.
- Hook adapter10 - 222 A /20 into lifting eye on right side of engine.
- Take up weight of engine evenly with both spindles; do not lift.
- Remove front wheels.
- Remove noise insulation (centre) by releasing fasteners (1 ... 3).
- Remove noise insulation (left-side) (fasteners 1 ... 3).
- Remove noise insulation (right-side) (fasteners 1 ... 3).
- Unplug electrical connector (2) for reversing light switch F4.
- Remove nut (1) and detach bracket from bottom starter bolt with electrical wiring.
- Unscrew bottom bolt securing starter (1).
- Place starter to side onto longitudinal member.
- Remove exhaust system bracket from subframe (arrows).
- Disconnect exhaust system at clamp (arrows).
- Tie up the front exhaust pipe. [Note: To prevent damage, the flexible joints in the front exhaust pipe must not be bent further than 10°.]
- If fitted, remove front left vehicle level sender G78(arrows).
- Detach connector (1) from oil level and oil temperature sender G266.
- Mark position of propshaft with flexible coupling in relation to bevel box flange.
- Unbolt propshaft with flexible coupling from bevel box (arrows) (counterhold triangular flange with suitable lever).
- Remove bolts (2) and (3) for pendulum support on gearbox. [Note: Slackening off securing bolts for pendulum support causes engine/gearbox assembly to swing forwards slightly (towards front end). Make sure that the seal (arrow) in the flange of the propshaft is not damaged when removing and installing.]
- Push engine/gearbox assembly forward slightly (towards front end) and then pull propshaft off bevel box.
- Lift propshaft up and secure with wire.
- Unscrew coupling rods on left and right of anti-roll bar.
- Unscrew nuts (arrows) securing swivel joint to wishbone.
- Detach steering box from subframe and tie it up.
- Before removal, fix subframe in position 40.
- Remove subframe with anti-roll bar, suspension brackets and wishbones 40.
- Unbolt heat shield for drive shaft (right-side) from bevel box (arrows).
- Unbolt drive shafts (left and right) from gearbox flange shafts.
- Lift drive shafts as high as possible and secure with wire, making sure you do not damage surface coating.
- Unscrew bolts (arrows) for gearbox carrier on bevel box and engine.
- Remove gearbox carrier.
- Remove bolt (arrow) from above bevel box.
- Remove bolts (arrows) on gearbox mounting.
- By adjusting spindles on support bracket10 - 222 A, lower gearbox by distance (a).
- Unbolt gearbox support from gearbox (arrows).
- Pull securing clip (arrow) off gate relay lever (1) and remove gate relay lever.
- Press in detent (arrow 1) as far as stop and remove gate relay lever together with cable end-piece (move relay lever in normal direction of operation). [Note: (Item 2) can be disregarded.]
- Remove engine/gearbox connecting bolt (arrow) (on engine side).
- Unscrew engine/gearbox securing bolt (arrow) located next to bevel box (C). [Note: Note: retaining clip (A) securing bolt (arrow) is fitted in sump (B).]
- Insert gearbox support3282 in engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A.
- Align arms of gearbox support according to holes in adjustment plate.
- Bolt on support elements (A), as illustrated on adjustment plate.
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.