Removing gearbox on vehicles with 6-cyl. TDI engine (also for Audi Cabriolet) — AUDI
Removing gearbox on vehicles with 6-cyl. TDI engine (also for Audi Cabriolet) on Audi: 60 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
Workshop procedure for AUDI — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.
🧭 Before you start
Fits: Audi A4 Cabriolet B6/B7 (8H), Audi A4 B6/B7 (8E)
Don't miss
- Take up some of the engine weight by tightening spindle of support bracket, but do not lift.
- The flexible pipe connection (de-coupling element) on the front exhaust pipe must not be bent more than 10° – otherwise it can be damaged.
- Injury risk - the lock carrier must be installed on the vehicle. — First unscrew bolts (1) and (2), then bolts (3) and (4).
- Observe rules for cleanliness when working on automatic gearbox .
- The starter does not have to be removed.
📋 Procedure
- Shift selector lever to position "“P”".
- ⚠ Follow steps required when disconnecting battery Electrical system27. — Slide battery cover towards right side of vehicle (arrow 1) and lift off (arrow 2).
- With ignition switched off, disconnect earth wire (arrow) at battery.
- Detach cover (2) from air cleaner.
- Pull off engine cover panel (arrows).
- Detach rubber seal from edges of wing mounting flanges.
- To avoid damaging edges of wing panels with support bracket10-222 A, insert wing compensation plates T40045 on both sides between the wing mounting flange and the body panel underneath.
- Set up support bracket10-222 A on wing mounting flanges (spindle faces to front).
- Take up some of the engine weight by tightening spindle of support bracket, but do not lift.
- Remove both front wheels.
- On vehicles fitted with auxiliary heater, remove bolts (arrows) securing exhaust pipe of auxiliary heater to noise insulation.
- Loosen bolts/quick-release fasteners (1 ... 3) and detach front and rear noise insulation.
- Unbolt bracket for noise insulation (arrows).
- Unscrew bolted connections (1 … 4) and remove front cross member on vehicle underside. [Note: The flexible pipe connection (de-coupling element) on the front exhaust pipe must not be bent more than 10° – otherwise it can be damaged.]
- Disconnect exhaust system at clamps (arrows).
- Apply lifting column of engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A to gearbox from below (place a block of wood (1) between lifting column and gearbox).
- Support the tunnel cross member with engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A.
- ⚠ Injury risk - the lock carrier must be installed on the vehicle. — First unscrew bolts (1) and (2), then bolts (3) and (4).
- Slowly lower tunnel cross member with engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A.
- Unscrew nuts (arrows) and detach tunnel cross member.
- Unscrew noise insulation bolt (1) above drive shaft (left and right).
- Disengage retainer (2) and remove noise insulation cover.
- Remove heat shield (1) for drive shaft (left-side).
- Unbolt drive shafts (left and right) from gearbox flanges Running gear, front-wheel drive and four-wheel drive40.
- Unbolt front exhaust pipe bracket (arrow).
- Remove nuts (1) on flange between primary catalytic converter and front exhaust pipe.
- Remove front exhaust pipe with catalytic converter.
- Remove engine speed sender G28 on left of gearbox (arrow) and move clear. [Note: Observe rules for cleanliness when working on automatic gearbox .]
- Place drip tray beneath gearbox.
- Unscrew union nuts (3) and disconnect ATF pipes.
- Unbolt clamp (2) securing ATF pipes.
- Detach retainer for ATF pipes on right side of engine.
- Remove bolt (arrow) and detach ATF pipes from gearbox.
- Unbolt additional ATF filter from gearbox (arrows) and take out filter together with ATF pipe.
- Release connector (A) in direction of (arrow) and unplug from gearbox.
- Move wiring harness clear.
- Release electrical connector (1) and detach from gearbox.
- Move wiring harness clear (arrows).
- Unscrew bolts (2) and remove bracket (3) for selector lever cable.
- Use removal lever80-200 to prise selector lever cable (A) off gearbox selector lever (arrow).
- Unscrew bolts (2) and detach gearbox support (1) from gearbox.
- Remove bolts (2 ... 7) from engine/gearbox flange.
- Only slacken bolt (Item 8) and leave it in position (finger-tight). [Note: The starter does not have to be removed.]
- Set up gearbox support3282 on engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A.
- Place adjustment plate3282/30 on gearbox support3282 (adjustment plate only fits in one position).
- Align arms of gearbox support according to holes in adjustment plate.
- Attach support elements as illustrated on adjustment plate.
- Place engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A with gearbox support3282 underneath gearbox and support gearbox. [Note: The arrow symbol on the adjustment plate points in the direction of travel.]
- Align adjustment plate parallel to gearbox and secure support to gearbox with bolt M10 x 20 (arrow). [Note: On Audi Cabriolet vehicles the following additional steps are required in order to remove the four bottom engine/gearbox bolts:]
- Use engine and gearbox jackV.A.G 1383 A to lift gearbox up slightly.
- Unbolt torque reaction support (arrows).
- Unscrew nuts (1) on left and right sides, and swivel anti-roll bar (2) downwards.
- Unscrew nuts (3) on left and right engine mountings until bottom of nut is flush with end of stud (arrow).
- Using support bracket10-222 A, lift engine until the two nuts (3) (on left and right sides) come into contact with bottom of console.
- Remove bolts (1), (9), (10) and (11) on engine/gearbox flange.
- Lower engine back down.
- Lower gearbox again slowly.
- Move drive shafts to rear.
- Remove the last engine/gearbox securing bolt.
- Press gearbox off dowel sleeves and lower it carefully.
Other AUDI procedures
- Removing and installing toothed belt – Audi · 56 torque figures
- Removing engine – Audi A8 D3 · 41 torque figures
- Removing camshaft timing chain from camshafts – Audi A6/A7 C7 · 38 torque figures
- Installing engine – Audi A8 D4 · 36 torque figures
- Removing and installing camshaft timing chain · 29 torque figures
Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.