Removing and installing rear lid control unit J605 — AUDI
Removing and installing rear lid control unit J605 on Audi: factory workshop procedure. Full factory text, tools and checks.
Workshop procedure for AUDI — the factory write-up, straight from real workshop data.
📋 Procedure
ℹ️ Torque figures below come verbatim from workshop data — always cross-check against your vehicle's factory manual before final tightening.
Removing and installing
rear lid control unit
J605
Electrical connector
Unplug before removing drive unit.
Drive unit (left-side) for rear lid
Roof end trim removed
Rep. gr.
70
Unfasten D-pillar trim in area of drive unit and, if necessary, push carefully to the side.
Note
Drive unit must only be removed and installed with rear lid fully open.
Unfasten lock nut at eccentric pin before removing drive unit.
Unplug electrical connector
2
.
Unfasten lock nut at drive unit
Anchor
.
Note
The eccentric pin must be seated loosely in the hole in the hinge arm.
If necessary, slacken the tension on the eccentric pin by turning it slightly clockwise.
Unscrew bolt
8
at bracket
3
.
Unscrew bolt
6
at hinge arm and detach drive unit
2
by pulling it to the side.
Bracket
Note
The bracket has been positioned at the factory using a special device and must not be moved out of this position.
If the bracket has to be renewed, e.g. in the case of accident repairs, proceed as follows:
Rear lid must be installed together with gas struts.
First attach bracket
3
loosely to drive unit using bolt
8
.
It must still be possible to move the bracket.
Push the drive unit parallel with the rear lid hinge pin until it makes full contact with the drive unit bush.
Caution
Drive unit bush must make full contact with hinge pin collar.
Use bolt
4
to fasten bracket on body side and tighten bolt to 21 Nm.
Tighten bolt
8
to 8 Nm.
Secure eccentric pin with lock nut to drive unit (tightening torque: 6 Nm).
Note
When the lock nut is tightened, the eccentric pin in the hinge is tensioned so that it is free of play.
You must therefore not use an open-ended spanner to counterhold the hexagon flats of the eccentric pin while you are tightening the lock nut.
When removing the drive unit, this tension can be slackened by turning the hexagon flats at the eccentric pin slightly clockwise after you have loosened the lock nut.
Tighten bolt
6
at the drive fork to 12 Nm.
Bolt with washer
21 Nm
Rear lid hinge
Bolt
Bolt is self-tapping.
12 Nm
Hinge arm
Bolt with washer
8 Nm
Damping for drive unit
Note
The damping element is only fitted on vehicles with a third row of seats and on some country-specific models.
Slide damping with locating lug from side into locating cylinder
arrow a
and use clips on damping element to engage in mounting holes
arrow b
on drive unit.
Installing drive unit in hinge
Rear lid hinge
Bolt
Self-tapping
8 Nm
Bolt with washer
8 Nm
Drive unit for rear lid
When installing, slide side of drive with bush
arrow B
and loose eccentric pin
arrow A
onto hinge.
Note
Drive unit bush must make full contact with hinge pin collar.
This causes forked arm of drive unit to move into hinge arm
1
.
Tighten bolt
3
to 8 Nm to secure drive unit to bracket.
Tighten lock nut
6
to 6 Nm.
Tighten bolt
2
to 12 Nm.
Cap
Attached to lock nut
Lock nut
Unfasten lock nut at eccentric pin before removing drive unit.
If necessary, slacken tension on eccentric pin in the hinge arm by turning hexagon flats slightly clockwise.
Self-locking
6 Nm
Eccentric pin with hexagon flats
Note
When the lock nut is tightened, the eccentric pin in the hinge is tensioned so that it is free of play.
You must therefore not use an open-ended spanner to counterhold the hexagon flats of the eccentric pin while you are tightening the lock nut.
When removing the drive unit, this tension can be slackened by turning the hexagon flats at the eccentric pin slightly clockwise after you have loosened the lock nut.
TorqFix answers live for your specific car — tell it the engine code and it serves the matching sequence, torque figures and wiring for that exact variant.
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.