Removing and installing convertible top cover: Audi A4 Cabriolet B6/B7
Step-by-step removing and installing convertible top cover for the Audi A4 Cabriolet B6/B7: 22 steps.
Removing the soft-top cover on the Audi Cabriolet with platform code listed below is fiddly trim work spread over the whole roof frame. With the top in the centre position, the seal retaining strip is unbolted from the front bracing hoop, the hoop trim and headliner tongues come away, and the piping strip and cover are pulled from the hoop groove. Sealing compound at the front corners is cleaned off, then the tensioning strap and tensioning cable are released and the cable drawn out of the canopy flaps. At the rear, the 1.5 mm staples at the zip ends are pinched off and the zips separated, a headliner rivet is drilled out and the rear window connectors unplugged. Patience with the zips, clips and cables decides whether the new cover fits without creases or trapped wiring.
🧭 Before you start
Set the top to the centre position, unbolt the seal strip, remove the hoop trim and pull the cover and piping from the front bracing hoop. Release the tensioning strap and cable, fold the cover back, pinch off the zip staples and separate the zips. Remove the bow bolt, rear window cable, headliner rivet and fastening strip, unplug the heated rear window and detach the frame at the main guide element. On assembly, check the position and operation of every roof component.
Fits: Audi A4 Cabriolet B6/B7 (8H)
- Renewed: defective clips
Don't miss
- Use a piece of welding wire to pull the tensioning cable back in on installation.
- Do not trap cable (2) when refitting the tensioning strap.
- Separate the zip fasteners carefully; a damaged zip means a new cover.
- Leave no clips in the rear window guide frame and renew any defective ones.
- Operate the roof through full travel after assembly before refitting all trim.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
📋 Procedure
- Move the convertible top to the centre position.
- Screw the bolts (arrows) of the retaining strip for the seal (1) out of the front bracing hoop.
- Carefully detach front bracing hoop trim.
- Remove tongues of convertible top headliner (1) at front bracing hoop.
- Pull piping strip (2) and convertible top cover (3) out of groove of front bracing hoop.
- Remove the sealing compound (arrow) at the front corners of the front bracing hoop.
- Detach convertible top cover sideways from convertible top frame.
- Remove the tensioning strap (1) at the roof guide element between bracing hoop "“3”" and bracing hoop "“4”". [Note: Take care not to trap the cable (2) on installation.]
- Remove tensioning cable (1) from mounting hole (2) in roof guide element "“1”".
- Pull tensioning cable to rear out of canopy flaps of convertible top cover. [Note: Use a suitable piece of welding wire when pulling in tensioning cable.]
- Fold back convertible top cover.
- Pinch off 1.5 mm staplesVAS 6148/1 at ends of zip fastener (arrow).
- Pull zip fastener apart (4x). [Note: Take care not to damage zip fastener.]
- Swivel bow into vertical position (convertible top in centre position) and screw out bolt (arrow B). [Note: For greater clarity, the adjacent illustration shows the convertible top structure without headliner, cover and padding.]
- Remove lock washer at rear window cable guide and pull cable out of guide (arrow).
- Drill out rivet (1) of convertible top headliner tongue at bow.
- Pull the fastening strip (2) of the convertible top headliner out of the groove in the bow.
- Pull the convertible top headliner out of the rear window guide frame. Take care not to leave any clips in the rear window guide frame. [Note: Replace defective clips.]
- Pull the plastic strip (1) out of the groove of the bow (2).
- Sever the cable tie (1).
- Open the housing (2) and unplug the heated rear window connectors.
- Detach convertible top frame downwards at main guide element. [Note: Pay attention to correct installation position and operation of all convertible top components.Check operation.]
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
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The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.