Removing and installing alternator - Audi TT RS with 2.5 ltr. TFSI engine — AUDI
Removing and installing alternator - Audi TT RS with 2.5 ltr. TFSI engine on Audi: 15 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
On the Audi TT RS (TT Mk2) with the 2.5 ltr. TFSI engine the alternator is boxed in by the belt drive and the right-hand coolant pipe, so removal is mostly clearing space. With the battery earth lead off, the poly V-belt tensioner comes out, the right-side coolant pipe bolt and the retaining clip bolt are removed, and the idler roller is unbolted. Then the connector, the terminal 30/B+ nut under its cap and the clamp nut are undone, the mounting bolts come out and the alternator lifts clear. The catch is the sliding bushes: if the unit sticks, a 1/2 inch socket (19 mm) and an M8x45 bolt draw the bush out, and the bushes must slide freely before refitting or the mounting will not clamp even at the right torque.
🧭 Before you start
Access means removing the poly V-belt tensioner, the right-side coolant pipe bolt, the retaining clip bolt and the idler roller. The alternator is then unplugged, the terminal 30/B+ nut and clamp nut are undone, the mounting bolts removed and the unit lifted out, freeing any stuck sliding bush with a 19 mm socket and an M8x45 bolt. On refit the sliding bushes are driven back slightly to help positioning, the tensioner and coolant pipe go back, the battery is connected with the required follow-up steps, and the engine is started to confirm the belt runs true.
Fits: Audi TT Mk2 (8J, 2006–2014)
Don't miss
- Sliding bushes must move freely; a stiff bush will not clamp even at the correct torque.
- If the alternator sticks, draw the bush out with a 19 mm socket and an M8x45 bolt.
- Drive the sliding bushes back slightly before offering the alternator up.
- Battery earth cable off with the ignition switched off before touching terminal 30/B+.
- Start the engine and watch the belt run properly before closing up.
Written for this job from the workshop steps below · TorqFix editorial.
📋 Procedure
- With ignition switched off, disconnect earth cable at battery .
- Remove poly V-belt tensioner for alternator and coolant pump 13Cylinder block (pulley end); Removing and installing poly V-belt tensioner.
- Remove bolt (2) for coolant pipe (right-side). [Note: Disregard (items 1, 3).]
- Remove bolt (arrow) at retaining clip.
- Unscrew bolts (1) and detach idler roller.
- Unplug electrical connector (3).
- Pry off protective cap (2) and unscrew nut (1) for terminal 30/B+.
- Unscrew nut (4) and pull off clamp.
- Remove bolts (arrows).
- Lift out alternator. [Note: If alternator sticks in bracket, apply a 1/2 inch socket (19 mm) (item 1) at sliding bush.Screw a bolt (M8x45) into sliding bush and then pull bush out of alternator by screwing in bolt.] [Note: You must ensure that the bushes slide freely, as the clamping pressure of a stiff bush will be insufficient even when the correct tightening torque is applied.]
- To facilitate positioning of alternator, drive back sliding bushes for securing bolts slightly.
- Install poly V-belt tensioner for alternator and coolant pump 13Cylinder block (pulley end); Removing and installing poly V-belt tensioner.
- Install coolant pipe (right-side) 19Coolant pipes; Exploded view - coolant pipes.
- Connect battery. Steps required .
- Start engine and check that belt runs properly.
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Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
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The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.