Removing and installing alternator, 1.6 l diesel engine — AUDI
Removing and installing alternator, 1.6 l diesel engine on Audi: 16 steps. What to remove, in what order, and what to check after.
Workshop procedure for AUDI — the exact step sequence and torque figures, straight from real workshop data.
🧭 Before you start
Fits: VW Caddy IV (SA, 2015–2020)
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- Risk of damage to air conditioner compressor, refrigerant lines and refrigerant hoses:Make sure refrigerant lines and hoses are not excessively stretched, kinked or bent. — Release and disconnect connector (1).
- Unscrew the lower of the two bolts (1) by approx. 1 cm; the bracket on fuel filter has a slit in it for installation and removal.
- If the alternator is stuck in its bracket, screw in the bolts (arrows) again except for the last two turns.Carefully hit bolt heads with flat side of hammer to release sliding bushes of alternator mounting.
- Free off stiff sliding sleeves or bushes of the alternator mounting. Otherwise, the clamping force of the sliding bushes will be too low even though the specified torque is set.
- Always start engine and check belt running after completing work.
📋 Procedure
- Disconnect earth wire from batteryA.
- Move lock carrier to service position General body repairs, exterior50Lock carrier from 2011; Moving to service position and resetting.
- Remove poly V-belt Power unit13Cylinder block, belt pulley end; Removing and installing poly V-belt.
- ⚠ Risk of damage to air conditioner compressor, refrigerant lines and refrigerant hoses:Make sure refrigerant lines and hoses are not excessively stretched, kinked or bent. — Release and disconnect connector (1).
- Unscrew securing bolts of air conditioner compressor (arrows). [Note: The hoses of the air conditioner compressor can remain connected.Suspend the air conditioner compressor using a piece of wire at a suitable position until it is ready to be reinstalled.Ensure that the hoses are not stretched or kinked.]
- Release and disconnect connector of DF cable (1).
- Lever off deflector cap (2).
- Undo nut (1) and detach the B+ wire under it from the connecting thread of the alternator.
- Undo nuts (3) and remove cable retainer (2) from alternator.
- Undo the two securing bolts (1) and the nuts (2) of the fuel filter (3) and place fuel filter to one side. The fuel hoses can then remain connected. [Note: Unscrew the lower of the two bolts (1) by approx. 1 cm; the bracket on fuel filter has a slit in it for installation and removal.]
- Undo and remove the two bolts (arrows) securing the alternator. [Note: If the alternator is stuck in its bracket, screw in the bolts (arrows) again except for the last two turns.Carefully hit bolt heads with flat side of hammer to release sliding bushes of alternator mounting.]
- Remove alternator by taking it upwards out of the vehicle.
- Drive threaded sleeve (A) about 4 mm in direction of arrow out of alternator housing. [Note: Free off stiff sliding sleeves or bushes of the alternator mounting. Otherwise, the clamping force of the sliding bushes will be too low even though the specified torque is set.]
- Secure wiring retainer (arrow) on back of alternator in 3 o'clock position.
- Fit earth wire on batteryA.
- Always start engine and check belt running after completing work.
Other AUDI procedures
- Removing and installing toothed belt – Audi · 56 torque figures
- Removing engine – Audi A8 D3 · 41 torque figures
- Removing camshaft timing chain from camshafts – Audi A6/A7 C7 · 38 torque figures
- Installing engine – Audi A8 D4 · 36 torque figures
- Removing and installing camshaft timing chain · 29 torque figures
- Removing and installing refrigerant lines to battery cooling module at rear of underbody (vehicle floor), vehicles with high-voltage system
- Checking heating output and activation of temperature flaps - "“basic”" version
- Removing and installing power steering pump (vehicles without dynamic steering, 6-cylinder engine)
- Removing and installing high-voltage battery – Audi A8 D4 CHJA
- Repairing 10 mm2 or 16 mm2 wiring with single butt connector
Who makes these pages, and how
TorqFix was built by a mechanic — after a 2,700 km drive with five roadside repairs that no diagnostic tool could explain.
The figures on this page come from manufacturer workshop documentation and are shown as they are. The page is assembled automatically from that data — it is not written by an AI. The AI works in the chat, where it answers for your specific car. It writes nothing here.
Variants of the same model differ. Cross-check torque against the factory manual for your engine before final tightening.
Seen a figure that does not match your manual? Write to us — we correct it and note when. support@torqfix.com
The story behind TorqFix →Workshop data on this page last updated 20 Sep 2026.